Adirondack Table

Transkript

Adirondack Table

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Table of Contents
Adirondack Chair
Arbor
Cocktail Table
Daytripper Table
MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.com
5
20
65
90
10
Adirondack Footstool
Big Green Egg Table
Corn Hole
Dog House
25
72
96
FIND A DEALER www.yellawood.com/dealers
Adirondack Table
Bird Feeder
Daytripper Chair
15
58
84
104
Double Adirondack Chair
©Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc.
2
Table of Contents
117
Double Rocker
Garden Bench
179
199
Multi-Purpose Stand
126
Dream Dog House
186
Hose Holder
205
Picnic Table
157
Freestanding Hammock
193
Hummingbird Feeder
211
Planter Box
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Play Set
216
Potting Bench
262
269
Raised Veggie Bed
3
Sandbox
273
Window Box
279
285
Fastener & Hardware
Information
286
Important Information
*All photos by Eliza Stoll
4
Adirondack Chair
There are many variations of the classic adirondack
chair. This particular version features straightforward
construction and common materials.
This chair makes for a satisfying project that can
be built and finished in one weekend. And when
properly finished, it will provide years of
comfortable seating.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts: 1 – 2 hours
Assembly: 1 – 2 hours
Finishing: 2 hours
Total: 4 – 6 hours
5
Adirondack Chair
TOOLS
A
Miter saw (or hand or circular saw)
Table saw
Jig saw (or hand or circular saw)
Drill/driver
18
" drill bit
Clamps
Damp rag to wipe up excess glue
X2
B
X2
C
X6
SUPPLIES
(4) 1 x 4 x 8'
(2) 1 x 8 x 8'
(1) 2 x 4 x 10'
1 ¼" deck screws
2" deck screws
3" deck screws
Waterproof wood glue
D
X1
E
X2
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
(2)
(2)
(6)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(2)
F
¾ x 7 ¼ x 36"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 21 ½"
¾ x 3 x 23"
¾ x 6 x 36"
¾ x 3 x 34"
¾ x 3 x 32"
¾ x 3 x 17"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 21"
¾ x 7 ¼ x 30"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 26"
¾ x 2 x 5"
X2
G
X2
H
X2
I
J
K
X2
6
Adirondack Chair
F
E
D
I
G
J
I
B
A
H
C
B
K
A
2”
H
5”
Braces
Arm detail
1 1/2”
4” 3”
2 1/2”
1 1/2”
(H)
(J)
I
45
0
(K)
1 1/2”
19”
15”
(Save this
cutout to make
piece K)
A
90
8”
(B)
(B)
3”
Back leg detail
7
Adirondack Chair
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut the back legs (A) to length and lay out and
cut the angles according to the detail drawing.
Use a jig saw or circular saw and guide to make
smooth, straight cuts. Note which cutout pieces
you will be saving to make braces later on. Lay
out where seat stretchers (B) will be attached
according to detail drawing. Drill pilot holes.
02 Cut seat stretchers (B) to length and attach
to back legs according to layout marks with
2" screws.
03 Cut arms (I) to length and mark where back
support (J), front legs (H) and braces (K) will be
attached according to detail drawing. Drill 8 "
pilot holes.
04 Clamp back support (J) in place and attach with
2" deck screws. Trim two of the cutout pieces
from back legs to make braces (K) according to
detail drawing, and attach them and front legs
(H) to the underside of the arms where noted
with 3" deck screws.
05 Measure up from the bottom of both front
legs and mark 16". Clamp back leg/stretcher
assembly to the front leg arm assembly,
keeping the top of the back legs at the 16" mark
and the front edge of the back legs flush with
the front edge of the front legs. Attach with 2"
deck screws.
8
Adirondack Chair
BUILDING STEPS
06 Cut all other pieces to lengths according to cut
list. Lay out your back slats (D, E, & F) with the
best sides facing down and ¼" spacers between
each slat. Use a straightedge along the bottoms
to help with alignment. Drill pilot holes in back
stretchers (G) and attach to the back of the slats.
Attach bottom edge of the bottom stretcher 4" up
from bottom of slats, and the second stretcher
16" up from that.
07 Set back slat assembly into place, with the
bottom stretcher (G) resting on the back seat
stretcher (B). With 2" screws attach through the
slats (D, E, & F) into the seat stretcher (B) and
back support (J).
08 Drill pilot holes in seat slats (C) and lay them out
on the seat with ¼" spacers between each slat.
Remove one arm assembly for drill clearance
and drill pilot holes into the back legs through
your slat pilot holes, then attach with 2" screws.
Reattach arm assembly and repeat for other side.
09 Break all edges and sand all surfaces smooth
before applying waterproof finish according to
manufacturer instructions.
9
Another piece of our Adirondack furniture suite is
this stylish and easy to build footstool. With angles
and lines that mimic the other two pieces, and a
gentle angle on which to rest your feet, you can
relax in comfort and satisfaction after building
these pieces.
With the same simple joinery techniques, coated
screws and waterproof glue, this piece will also
last for years of enjoyment.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 1 hour
Finishing: 2 hours
10
A
TOOLS
Miter saw
Table saw
Drill/driver
Jig saw
18
" drill bit
X2
B
SUPPLIES
X2
(1) 1 x 5 x 8'
(1) 1 x 4 x 8'
1 ¼" deck screws
2" deck screws
C
X2
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
(2)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(7)
¾ x 3 ½ x 15"
¾ x 4 ½ x 10"
¾ x 2 x 15"
¾ x 3 x 14"
¾ x 2 x 16 ½"
D
X2
E
X7
11
1/4” Space between slat
E
E
Leg detail
B
E
E
11 /2"
1
E
12"
D
2 /2"
1
22 1/2° bevels
(A)
B
Rail detail
45
B
o
D
1 o
22 /2
12 /4"
1
A
C
C
Feet Detail
A
45°
A
22½°
1½"
3"
12
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut all pieces to length and rip all slats to width
according to dimensions on cut list. Layout the
feet profiles (A) according to illustration detail.
You can cut the 45° angles on your miter saw
using the 1 ½" mark as the beginning point for
your cut. Lay out the 22 ½° angles using a speed
square and cut those with a jig saw.
02 Square a line 2 ½" up from the bottom of both
legs (B). Mark the center point of the bottom
edge of the legs and another down the back
face of the feet. Line up the 2 ½" line flush and
square with the top edge of the feet and lined
up with the center points. Attach with glue and
1 ¼" screws.
03 Attach stretchers (C) to the edges of the legs
with glue and 1 ¼" screws. Keep the bottom
edges flush.
04 When both stretchers are attached to one side,
attach the other foot/leg assembly in the
same manner.
05 Mark the center points along the top edges of
the legs and rails (D), line up those marks and
attach the rails to the legs keeping top
edges flush.
13
BUILDING STEPS
06 Set your table saw fence to a width of 1 ½" and
tilt the blade to 22 ½°. Take four slats and one by
one place the bottom face against the table and
rip one edge. This will leave you with a face that
is still 2" wide to match the other slats, but the
bottoms will follow the angles of the rails.
07 Attach beveled slats to both ends of the
footstool with glue and 2" screws, keeping the
unbeveled edge even with the end points of
the rails. Be sure to drill through your slat pilot
holes and into the rail edge to prevent splitting.
08 Lay out the rest of your slats, mating the
beveled slat edges with each other and filling
the middle with unbeveled slats. Put ¼"
spacers between each slat. Attach with glue
and 2" screws.
09 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth (the
beveled edges of the two end slats will have to
be sanded down to “level out” with the faces of
their mating slats). Apply waterproofing finish
according to manufacturer instructions.
14
Adirondack Table
This simple little table is easy and fun to build. With
butt joints and waterproof glue, you’ll spend very
little time building this project compared with how
long you’ll be able to enjoy it.
The end pieces mimic the seat back profile of the
Adirondack chair featured in another plan in this
book. And when combined with the Adirondack
footstool also in this book, you’ll have a complete
Adirondack furniture suite. Your only problem may
be how many of them you’ll have to build to keep
your family and friends as comfortable as you
will be.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 2 hours
Finishing: 2 hours
15
Adirondack Table
A
TOOLS
Miter saw
Table saw
Drill/driver
¼" drill bit
X4
B
X2
SUPPLIES
C
(1) 1 x 8 x 8'
(1) 1 x 6 x 8'
(1) 1 x 4 x 8'
1 ¼" deck screws
X2
D
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
(4)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(2)
(4)
(4)
¾ x 5 ½ x 17"
¾ x 2 ½ x 19 ¾"
¾ x 2 ½ x 21"
¾ x 6 x 24"
¾ x 3 x 24"
¾ x 6 x 7"
¾ x 3 x 5 ½"
¾ x 3 x 4"
X1
E
X4
F
X2
G
X4
H
X4
16
Adirondack Table
Leg detail
1 ½"
Cut here to make
a pair of legs
from one 1 x 6;
repeat for a set of
four legs
E
E
D
E
A
E
H
A
C
A
G
B
G
H
F
H
1 ½"
4”
C
B
G
A
F
G
A
H
¼"
3"
3"
6"
3"
3"
H
G
F
G
H
45°
End pieces detail
4"
5 ½"
7"
3"
17
Adirondack Table
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut two pieces of 1 x 6 to 17" and measure
and mark to cut a pair of legs (A) from each
piece, ending up with four legs total (see detail
drawing for measurements).
02 Cut the end (B) and side (C) rails to the
dimensions on the cut list.
03 Attach the legs (A) to the side rails (C) with
1 ¼" deck screws, keeping the top and outside
edges flush.
04 Attach end rails (B) to leg/rail assembly with
1 ¼" screws, again keeping tops and outside
edges flush.
05 Cut the tabletop pieces (D and E) to dimensions
on the cut list. They should measure 1 ½" longer
than the length from one end rail to the other
(leaving ¾" overhang on both ends to meet
flush with end pieces). Lay them out on your
table top with ¼" spacers between each slat.
18
Adirondack Table
BUILDING STEPS
06 Use a scrap piece to make sure your overhang
is exactly ¾" on both ends, drill pilot holes in
the top slats and attach to the end rails with
glue and screws.
07 Cut the end pieces (F, G and H) according to
dimensions on the cut list. Refer to illustration
for layout of 45° cuts. Place them on the end
rails, lining them up with the top slats and
keeping the tops tight underneath the slats.
Attach with glue and screws.
08 Wipe away all excess glue and drips,
sand everything smooth and apply
waterproofing finish.
TIP: Always drill ¼" pilot holes before driving
any screws to avoid splitting the material. MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.com
19
Arbor
Perfect for framing a garden path or creating an
outdoor entryway to your front walk, arbors are not
only classic and elegant, but also simple and fun to
build. This arbor features a lattice design perfect for
climbing flowers. However, you can create your own
to either close it in more for added privacy or open it
up for a lighter feel.
This structure is pretty heavy and cumbersome to
move around, so enlist a helper to aid you in moving
it around as you build it and especially as you
install it.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 2 hours
Finishing: 2 – 4 hours
*Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws.
20
Arbor
TOOLS
A
Miter saw or circular saw
Table saw
Drill/driver
3 8 " drill bit at least 5" long
1 ¼" forstner or spade bit
8 " drill bit
Square
Socket wrench
Chisel
X4
B
X4
C
SUPPLIES
X4
(4) 4 x 4 x 10'
(4) 2 x 4 x 8'
(14) 2 x 2 x 42" deck balusters
with bevels cut at both ends
(3) 1 x 6 x 8'
3" deck screws
2" deck screws
1 ¼" deck screws
(4) 3 8 " x 4 ½" galvanized bolts,
flat washers and nuts
D
X 14
E
X 10
CUT LIST
F
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
(4)
(4)
(4)
(14)
(10)
(4)
(22)
(12)
3 ½ x 3 ½ x 96"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 96"
3 ½ x 3 ½ x 24"
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 42"
¾ x 1 x 31"
¾ x 1 x 69"
¾ x 1 x 15 ½"
¾ x 1 x 12"
G
H
X4
X 22
X 12
21
Arbor
Exploded view
D
B
End slats 9¾" from the end of B
C
B
C
H
A
A
1 3 8"
A
Post detail
F
A
96"
E
G
A
Brace detail
93"
1 3 8"
45°
3"
3"
C
side view
24"
C
end view
45°
22
Arbor
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut your posts (A) to 8' and then mark 3" down
from the top end and cut a tenon 1 3 8 " deep on
either side. To do this, set your saw’s depth to
1 8 " and make several passes in your layout
marks, then clean out the waste and flatten the
surfaces with a sharp chisel. Cut your braces (C)
from the waste ends of your 10' posts, using the
same principles to cut a tenon on one end of
each brace (see illustration detail).
02 Cut your 2 x 4 top rails (B) to exactly 96" long
and clamp them together in pairs, with the
best sides (faces) facing outward. Mark a 60°
angle on each, then find where that angle
intersects the midpoint (1 ¾") of the 2 x 4 and
use that as a center point to drill a 1 ¼" diameter
hole. Use your miter saw or circular saw to
then cut the angle.
03 Rip 1" wide pieces from your 1 x 6 and then cut
them to length for lattice pieces (E, F, G, and H),
cutting a 45° angle on both ends.
04 Lay the posts (A) on a flat surface with their ends
flush and measure 18" up from the bottom and
then make a mark every 3" until you reach 15"
from the bottom of your tenon cut. Square the
marks across all four posts, making sure you are
marking the outside end faces of each post.
05 Group your lattice pieces together (group E, F,
G, H), keeping ends flush and mark them in the
following manner: 12" in from both ends on the
outside face of part E; every 3" along the inside
face of part F; 3" in from one end on the outside
face of part G; and 3" in from both ends on part
H. Mark a square line across all pieces of each
group according to those marks.
23
Arbor
BUILDING STEPS
06 Attach the lattice pieces to the outside faces
of each pair of posts, starting with E first, then
F and then filling in with G and H. You will not
be using every layout mark on these pieces
(meaning that you will have some visible marks
once you’ve attached all lattice pieces). Use
the illustration detail as a guide. Use 2" screws
when attaching lattice pieces to your posts (A),
and use 1 ¼" screws when attaching lattice
pieces to each other.
07 With each lattice/post assembly on edge on a
pair of sawhorses, sandwich the top rails (B)
on each tenon, keeping the outside face of each
post 19" in from the long point of the top rail.
Drill a 3 8 " pilot hole through the rails and post
tenons and insert your carriage bolts from the
outside and secure the washer and nut from
the inside.
08 With the assembly laying flat, attach the braces
(C) at each corner, making sure the top and
bottom angles meet flat against the posts and
top rails. Drive 3" deck screws through each
brace and into the post, as well as one 3" screw
from the front and back of the rails and into the
brace tenon.
09 Attach the top slats to the rails, starting 9 ¾"
in from each end and keeping 6" spacing
between slats. Carefully drill pilot holes and
attach with 3" screws. You may need to tack
some temporary bracing around the bottom
of the posts to keep everything square during
this step.
10 Break all edges with sandpaper and smooth
any rough spots. Apply a waterproofing finish
of your choice according to manufacturer
specifications. This arbor can be installed simply
by placing the bottoms of the posts on four flat
stones or pavers (leveled with each other), or
more permanently by setting them in concrete
—research various methods and choose the one
that fits your situation.
24
Big Green Egg Table
PROJECT PLAN
Create a modern, clean and strong home
for your grilling champion.
This custom table is designed to
accommodate a medium-sized Big
Green Egg,® to highlight your grilling
work-horse and give you extra space for
cooking at ease.
It features a shallow, built-in shelf to
store grilling utensils, plates and other
periphery. The legs are thin planks laid
up to maximize their strength while
remaining sleek.
Next, you will lay out surface planks and
cut out the circle to fit the Big Green Egg®.
After some light finishing, you’ll be ready to
grill in style all summer long.
Make sure to take proper safety
precautions, including always wearing
gloves, goggles and a dust mask when
you’re cutting or sanding.
BUILD TIME
9
HRS
DIFFICULTY
Note: Big Green Egg® is a registered trademark of Big
Green Egg, Inc.
You’ll start with the construction of the
frame, then move on to assembling the
shelf and brace supports.
COST
$ $ $ $ $
BuildYella.com
25
Big Green Egg Table
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUTLIST
/4 x6x16'
5
L
L
O
O
O
O
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
Q
Q
M
M
M
K
Part (L)
*ripped to 3 3/4 "
N
G
(5)
H
H
2x4x6'
(1)
1x4x12'
(2)
F F
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
F F
D
J
D
C
C
C
E
C
B
E
B
1x4x12' (1)
*ripped to 1 1/2"
J
E
E
1x4x10'
I
1x4x6'
(1)
*ripped to 1 1/2"
(1)
26
Big Green Egg Table
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
TOOLS
WOOD STOCK
Note:
/4x6x16'
5x
5
For this project we chose to
use YellaWood SuperSelect®
brand KDAT products for a
clear appearance. To learn
more about this product, visit
yellawood.com/superselect
1x2x4x6'
3x1x4x12'
1x1x4x10'
1x1x4x6'
Miter saw
(or hand or
circular saw)
Table saw
Drill/driver
Nail gun
Miter square
Jigsaw
Clamps
Wood glue
HARDWARE
1 LB BOX
1 1/4" Star-drive flat-head decking screws
2" Star-drive flat-head decking screws
~ 30 EACH
18-gauge 1 1/2" nails
18-gauge 1" nails
OTHER
1x
10x
1x
Metal tie plate (16-gauge 3 x 7")
#8 1 1/4" Wafer wood screws (for tie Plate)
15 x 15" Concrete paver for Big Green Egg®
(or 2x 7 1/2" x 15 1/2")
/ " Countersink
drill bit
18
Measuring
tape
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
2
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
6
HRS
FINISHING
+
1
TOTAL
=
HRS
9
HRS
27
Big Green Egg Table
RENDERS
28
Big Green Egg Table
DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS
Notes:
All measurements are approximate.
Cut stock in the correct sequence of
steps because many dimensions are
directly measured and will vary based
on actual stock and construction.
Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to
measure your stock.
TOP
FRONT
LEFT SIDE
~32"
~55"
~27 ½"
29
Big Green Egg Table
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG
STRUCTURES
4: SHELF
2: LEG SUPPORTS
5: LOWER PLANKS
3: BRACE SUPPORTS
6: UPPER PLANKS
FINAL STEPS: FINISHING &
INSTALLING BIG GREEN EGG
30
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 1:
LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES
CUTLIST
1x4 STOCK
32"
(4x)
3 ½"
A
21 ¾"
(4x)
B
1 ½"
Cuts: For each step, you can
pre-cross-cut all of the pieces
listed in the Cutlist for each
section.
LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURE
31
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
LEFT
2"
2"
/"
/"
78
B
78
B
1 1/8"
/"
3 4
A
A
A
A
14 1/8"
14 1/8"
B
B
*Note:
Use a miter square
and make precise
marks on (A) to ensure
subsequent steps align.
LEFT
FRONT
RIGHT
After you have the
corner points, draw a
rectangle with an “X” in
the middle so that you
have an intersection
location for the countersink + screw.
BACK
RIGHT
B
/"
/"
3 8
B
3 8
/"
/"
7 8
7 8
/"
3 4
1 /2"
1
A
A
A
A
14 1/8"
B
LEFT
14 1/8"
B
FRONT
RIGHT
BACK
32
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A: Left Leg Assembly
A1
A2
A3
Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 32".
These will create parts (A). Then, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 21 ¾" for
parts (B).
Take the two (B)s and rip them to a width
of 1 ¼". You will be able to create two 1
¼" wide pieces from a single 1x4. This will
create four part (B)s.
To mark on part (A) where to attach part
(B), measure 7/8" from the top and 2" from
the right edge. This is where the top right
corner of part (B) will be placed. Use the
corner marks to draw a rectangle.
A4
A5
A6
Make a mark 14 1/8" from the top and 2"
from the right edge. This is where the top
right corner of another part (B) will be
positioned. Draw a rectangle here as well.
Flip (A) over and inscribe the same 2
rectangles on the opposite side in a
mirrored fashion. Having these marks on
the other side of the board will indicate
where to pin and screw (B) to (A).
Place a piece of 5/4 board on your work
surface to support part (B), and prop (A)
vertically. Use clamps to secure (A) to the
top of the scrap piece and to the table.
A7
A8
A9
Glue edge of (B) and pin in place using a
nail gun and two 18-gauge nails.
Next, drill a pilot hole in the center of the
rectangle you drew. Use one 2" screw
each to secure the two part (B)s to part
(A).
Repeat the rectangle guides on the other
part (A). Note: the dimensions are the
same, just mirrored from left to right.
Tip: Need help, or have questions about how to cut these parts? Watch the video!
33
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A: Left Leg Assembly
A10
A11
Glue, pin with nail gun, drill a pilot hole,
and secure (B) with one 2" screw in the
center of the rectangle.
Flip assembly over to allow the other (A)
to be propped vertically. Attach the 2 (B)
parts to this leg in the same way they
were attached to first (A). This completes
the Left Leg Assembly.
34
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 1:
B: Right Leg Assembly
B1
B2
Mark on a fresh part (A) where to attach
the other pieces using the Dimensions
and Diagrams information (Page 32). 7/8"
from the top and 3/8" from the left edge will
be where the top left corner of part (B) will
be placed.
Make a mark 14 1/8" from the top and
2" from the left edge. This is where the
top left corner of another part (B) will be
positioned.
B3
B4
B5
Once you have mirrored the 2 rectangles
so they are on both sides of (A), transfer
these to another (A) so you have eight
total rectangle guides for placing and
attaching (B).
Apply glue to edges of (B), and attach one
at a time to the edges of (A) in the manner
previously described (pin with 2 nails, drill
pilot hole, and attach with one screw).
It may be easier to place the assembly on
the floor to insert the top (B).
Note:
Refer to the Dimensions and
Diagrams information (Page 32) to
ensure correct placement of the
rectangle guides on (A).
B6
You now have both left and right leg
assemblies.
35
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 2:
LEG SUPPORTS
CUTLIST
1x4 STOCK
32"
(4x)
3 ½"
A
16 3/8"
(4x)
3 ½"
C
52 ½"
(4x)
1 ½"
D
*Ripped to
1 ½"
11 ¾"
(4x)
3 ½"
E
⅞"
(4x)
F
3 ½"
LEG SUPPORTS
36
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
LEG SUPPORTS
A
LEFT
F
D
E
D
C
FRONT
D
A
A
D
LEG SUPPORTS
37
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 2:
LEG SUPPORTS
A: Front and Rear Leg Assemblies
A1
A2
A3
For the front and back leg pieces, you’ll
make four more part (A)s. Cross-cut 1x4s
to 32" in length.
Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 16 3/8".
This will create part (C). For (D)s, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 52 ½", and rip
them to 1 ½" for four total boards.
Cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of 11 3/4" to
create part (E). You’ll need four of these.
Then cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of 7/8" to
create part (F). You’ll need four of these.
A4
A5
A6
To dry-fit all pieces, place part (A) flat on
a work surface. Lay part (C) on top of part
(A), keeping the bottom edges flush.
Next, lay part (D) on top of part (A),
followed by part (E), another part (D), and
part (F) at the top. Before fastening (C),
ensure it is flush with (A). If not, adjust (C)
so it fits.
Use wood glue and 1" nails in a nail gun
to pin in place, beginning with part (F).
Glue and nails are enough to fasten this
section.
A7
A8
Repeat steps A4 - A6 for the other leg
assembly.
This completes the Front and Rear Leg
Assemblies.
LEG SUPPORTS
38
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 2:
LEG SUPPORTS
B: Combine the Leg Components
B1
B2
B3
Take the front leg components and lay
them flat on the work surface. Make sure
part (A) is facing down. Take the Left Leg
Assembly and place it on top of the Front
Leg Assembly.
Apply glue to the assemblies, pin in place
with the nail gun using 1 ½" nails, then
drill pilot holes and attach with 2" screws.
Repeat this process on the right side
using the Right Leg Assembly.
B4
Next, flip the assembly and do the same
steps on the other side and place it on top
of the other leg assembly.
LEG SUPPORTS
39
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 3:
BRACE SUPPORTS
CUTLIST
2x4 STOCK
49 ½"
(1x)
3 ½"
G
9 7/8"
(2x)
3 ½"
H
1x4 STOCK
23 ¼"
1 ½"
(1x)
*Ripped to 1 ½"
12"
(2x)
1 ½"
J
15"
*Ripped to
1 ½"
45˚
45˚
BRACE SUPPORTS
40
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
BRACE SUPPORTS
TOP
H
J
G
I
J
H
J
H
BOTTOM
G
I
J
H
BRACE SUPPORTS
41
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 3:
BRACE SUPPORTS
A: Lower Bracing
A1
A2
A3
Flip assembly 90° and place it on a level
surface.
Cross-cut a 2x4 to a length of 49 ½". This
will create part (G). Cross-cut two 2x4s to
a length of 9 7/8" to create 2 part (H)s.
Use 1x4 stock to cut part (I) and 2 (J)s. (J)
s edges are mitered at 45°.
A4
A5
A6
Now, center parts (H) to bisect (G) as
shown.
Use a metal plate tie to connect the three
pieces. Place it so most of the holes fall
on solid wood and not at joints. Use #8
1 ¼" screws to secure plate to wood.
Take the cross piece assembly and align
it on the table frame so it is flush with
(D). Use a clamp to hold the (H) edges in
place.
A7
A8
Attach (G) edges with two 2 ½" screws.
After (G) is secure, attach (H)s. This
completes the Lower Bracing.
BRACE SUPPORTS
42
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 3:
BRACE SUPPORTS
B: Upper Bracing
B1
B2
B3
Cross-cut a piece of 1x4 to a length of
23 ¼", and rip it to a width of 1 ½" to
create part (I).
On the upper part (D) that is on the back
side, make a mark 23 1/8" from the left
edge. This is where the left edge of part (I)
will be positioned.
Glue the edges, pin with 1" nails, drill a
pilot hole, and attach part (I) to part (D)
with one 2" screw. Repeat on the other
side of the assembly.
B4
B5
Position part (J) in the corner between
parts (D) and (B). Apply glue, pin with 1"
nails, drill a pilot hole, and secure with a
1 ¼" screw at each intersection.
Repeat with the other part (J).
BRACE SUPPORTS
43
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 4:
SHELF
CUTLIST
/ x6 STOCK
54
21 ¾"
23 ¼"
(1x)
5 ¼"
K
(1x)
5 ¼"
N
25 ½"
(2x)
3 ¾"
L
2-3/4"
*Ripped to
3 ¾"
3/4"
25 ½"
(3x)
5 ¼"
M
1x4 STOCK
12"
(2x)
J
15"
1 ½"
45˚
45˚
SHELF
44
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
SHELF
TOP
K
L
J
N
M
M
M
J
L
FRONT
J
N
K
M
SHELF
45
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 4:
SHELF
A: Attach to Structure
A1
A2
A3
Cross-cut a 5/4 x6 to a length of 23 ¼" to
make part (K). Then cross-cut two 5/4 x6
boards to a length of 25 ½", and rip them
to a width of 3 ¾" for two part (L)s.
Make two more (J)s that are 15" long and
mitered at 45˚.
Make a notch in one corner of each that
is 2 ¾" by ¾". This will create two part
(L)s.
A4
A5
A6
Cut three 5/4 x6s to a length of 25 ½" - this
will create parts (M). Cut a 5/4 x6 to a length
of 21 ¾" to make part (N).
Create the shelf assembly on its own,
built upside down. Stand parts (K) and
(N) on edge and place them about 23 ¾"
apart, and dry-fit parts (L) and (M) on top.
The two parts (L) should be at the edges.
Glue, nail in place, drill pilot holes, and
attach with 1 ½" screws.
A7
A8
A9
Flip the shelf assembly and wipe any
excess glue from the inside of the shelf.
Then slide it up into place in the leg
assembly. The top edges should be flush
with the top edges of parts (B) and (I).
Drill pilot holes and attach with 1 ¼"
screws.
Position part (J) in the corner between
parts (D) and (K). Drill pilot holes and
attach using 1 ¼" screws. Repeat with the
other part (J).
SHELF
46
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 5:
LOWER PLANKS
CUTLIST
/4x6 STOCK
5
26 ¼"
3"
(2x)
5 ¼"
O
2 ¼"
22 ¾"
3 ½"
26 ¼"
5 ¼"
(7x)
P
26 ¼"
1 ¾"
(1x)
5 ¼"
Q
21 ¾"
3 ½"
2 ¼"
SHELF
47
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
LOWER PLANKS
TOP
O
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
Q
P
P
O
FRONT
O
P
Q
LOWER PLANKS
48
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 5:
LOWER PLANKS
A: Left & Right Half
A1
A2
A3
Cross-cut a 5/4x6 to a length of 26 ¼" to
create part (P). You’ll need seven of these
in total.
To make part (O), cross-cut four 5/4x6s to
a length of 26 ¼". Using a jigsaw, make a
notch in one corner of each board that is
3 ½" by 2 ¼".
Finally, cross-cut two 5/4x6s to a length of
26 ¼". Make notches in two corners that
are 2 ¼" by 3 ½". This will create part (Q).
A4
A5
A6
We’ll start with the back left corner of the
lower decking. Place part (O) on top of
the bracing. The notch should fit around
the leg assembly. Dry-fit all planks before
attaching.
Pin in place, beginning at corners, with
1 ¼" nails to prevent shifting. Nailing is
sufficient for this shelf, but if you desire,
you can pre-drill and screw in 2" hardware
as well.
For the right half, start at the right edge of
the table with part (Q). Either nail or drill
pilot holes and secure with 1 ¼" screws
into the bracing. This completes the
Lower Planks.
LOWER PLANKS
49
Big Green Egg Table
STEP 6:
UPPER PLANKS
CUTLIST
/4x6 STOCK
5
26 ¼"
3"
(2x)
5 ¼"
O
2 ¼"
22 ¾"
3 ½"
26 ¼"
5 ¼"
(7x)
P
26 ¼"
1 ¾"
(1x)
5 ¼"
Q
21 ¾"
3 ½"
2 ¼"
UPPER PLANKS
50
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
UPPER PLANKS
TOP
O
O
O
P
P
Q
Q
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
O
O
O
Q
FRONT
Q
P
P
P
P
O
UPPER PLANKS
51
Big Green Egg Table
ASSEMBLY VIEW
UPPER PLANKS
TOP
DIAMETER
18"
Note: This is the diameter specified by Big Green Egg for the 15"-wide Medium-sized Egg.
UPPER PLANKS
52
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 6:
UPPER PLANKS
A: Left & Right Half
A1
A2
A3
Cross-cut parts (O), (P), and (Q), for a total
of 10 parts.
Starting with the left edge, place part (Q)
and four (P)s on the top of the bracing.
Dry-fit all planks before attaching.
Use a nail every few inches to pin down
the planks, beginning with the corners (Q)
and (P). Mark where screws will go, and
drill pilot holes before securing planks to
the bracing using 1 ¼" screws.
UPPER PLANKS
53
Big Green Egg Table
BUILDING
STEP 6:
UPPER PLANKS
B: Grill Cutout
B1
B2
B3
The final step is to cut out a circle in the
upper decking. Make a mark 13 ¾" from
the left edge and 13 1/8" from the back
edge. This will be the center of your circle.
Use a compass* to draw the 18" diameter
circle.
With a jigsaw, cut out the circle.
*Making a compass:
Take a thin piece of scrap wood that’s at
least 10" long, and make 2 holes whose
center points are 9" apart. Put a screw in
one hole and place at the center mark.
Put a pencil in the other hole, and, using
the screw as a pinpoint, pivot the radius
arm to form a circle.
UPPER PLANKS
54
Big Green Egg Table
OPTIONAL:
FINISHING
YellaWood® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites.
Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend annual application of a water
repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.
A1
Ease any sharp edges with a medium grit
sanding block. Apply preferred finish to
the wood.
55
Big Green Egg Table
INSTALLING
BIG GREEN EGG
A1
A2
First, place the concrete paver on the
lower decking under the circle you cut
out.
With the help of a friend or two, lift the Big
Green Egg® over the cutout and carefully
lower onto the paver.
CONGRATULATIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW GRILLING STATION!
56
Big Green Egg Table
GALLERY
57
Bird Feeder
This bird feeder should attract many different birds to
your yard. With a platform for those birds that like to
move around on a flat surface while they pick at feed
as well as a dowel for those who prefer a more natural
“perch,” this project will please both people and fowl
for years.
The roof is removable for easy filling and the subbase, with screen and drainage holes, will keep the
seed from soaking up moisture, which will keep your
backyard friends happier and healthier.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts: 2 hours
Assembly: 1 hour
Finishing: 2 hours
Total: 5 hours
*Note: Drill 1 8 " pilot holes for all screws.
58
Bird Feeder
A
TOOLS
Miter saw
Table saw
Drill/driver
1 8 " drill bit
5 16 " drill bit
½" drill bit
Brad nailer
Utility knife
Square
Metal cutting snips
Staple gun
Clamps
X1
B
X2
C
X1
D
SUPPLIES
X1
(2) 1 x 8 x 8'
(2) 1/8" x 5 ½" x 13 ½" acrylic sheets
¼" by 13" dowel
5" x 10" metal screen
¾" galvanized brads
1 ¼" galvanized brads
3 8 " galvanized staples
1 ¼" deck screws
E
X1
F
X2
G
X2
CUT LIST
H
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
(1)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(1)
¾ x 7 ¼ x 9"
¾ x 1 x 17 ¾"
¾ x 3 ½ x 11"
¾ x 9 x 11"
¾ x 1 ½ x 11"
¾ x 5 ½ x 10"
¾ x 4 x 8"
¾ x 7 ¼ x 16 ½"
¾ x ¾ x 13"
¾ x 5 x 8"
¾ x ¾ x 5"
¼ x 12 ½"
X2
I
J
X1
K
L
X1
X2
X1
59
Bird Feeder
H
H
I
Acrylic sheets
G
L
B
E
F
C
B
Screen
A
K
J
60
Bird Feeder
Finished view
Roof detail
1
7 / 4"
45
o
4"
H
G
8"
Hopper end detail
3
2 / 4"
1
/2
"
45
F
8"
" wide grooves
1/
4 " deep
3/
16
2"
o
13/4 "
61
Bird Feeder
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut pieces A through E to the dimensions noted
on the cut list. To make part D, you will have to
cut 2 pieces of 1 x 8 at 11 ½" long and edge glue
and clamp them together. Once the glue has set,
trim to size on your table saw.
02 Mark two lines on the base (A) at 2 ¾" and 4
¾" along the narrow edge and square them
down along the length. Drill a series of ten ½"
diameter holes along each line, spaced about
1" in from the ends and 1" apart (no need to be
exact as long as they are all drilled on your two
square lines).
03 Cut a piece of metal screen to 5" x 10" and place
it over the holes you drilled in the base (A).
Attach it with 3 8 " galvanized staples.
04 With bottom (D) face down on your assembly
table, measure 4" in from the long point of the
beveled edge and square a line. Place the edge
of the base (A) on that line, keeping ends flush
with (D), and attach with glue and screws.
Repeat the process with bottom (C),
measuring 1 ½" from the beveled edge and
placing the other end of (A) on that line.
05 Place bottom (E) between (D) and (C), keeping
ends flush and an approximate ¾" gap between
all beveled edges. Make sure the gaps line up
with the drainage holes in base (A). Tack (E) to
(A) with 1 ¼" brads from the top side, then flip
over and drive screws from underneath (no glue
on this step).
62
Bird Feeder
BUILDING STEPS
06 Tack ends (B) in place with glue and 1 ¼" brads
along the edges of your base/bottom assembly,
keeping ends flush with part (D) and extending
2 ¾" beyond part (C). Carefully drill pilot holes
and drive screws to permanently attach.
07 Cut remaining pieces, noting bevel and angle
details on hopper ends (F) and roof components
(G, H). To cut the grooves in hopper ends (F),
set your table saw blade height at ¼" and set the
fence at ½". Run all 4 grooves on both hopper
ends, then bump the fence very slightly to
about 9 16 " and run them again, resulting in
grooves about 3 16 " wide. Line up center of
hopper ends (F) with the peak of bottom (E) on
both sides, keeping bottom edge of hopper (F)
flush with bottom edge of ends (B). Attach
with glue and screws.
08 Attach cross piece (I) between the peaks of
hopper ends (F), with glue and 1 ¼" brads,
keeping edges flush.
09 Cut acrylic sheets to size. If you can’t have them
cut to size, cut them yourself by running a sharp
utility knife along a straightedge several times
(10 or more) and snapping them along that line.
For smaller cutoffs or to clean up a cut edge,
you may need to break off pieces with a pair of
pliers. Insert into grooves in hopper ends (F).
10 Attach roof tops (H) to roof ends (G) with glue
and screws.
63
Bird Feeder
11 Drill two 5 16 " holes in end pieces (B), centered
along the width and 1 ¼" in from the end
overhanging part (C). Put a small bit of glue in
both holes, insert dowel and attach with
¾" brads.
12 Attach spacers (K) to mounting base (J) with
glue and 1¼" brads. If you will be attaching this
to a wooden post, screw the mounting base to
the post first, then attach mounting base to the
underside of base (A), with 2" screws, making
sure that the spacers do not block drainage
holes. Another method is to attach mounting
base to bottom of base (A), then attach a pipe
flange to the underside of the mounting base
and screw the flange onto the top of a threaded
pipe driven into the ground. Either way, your
feeder is ready to sand, finish, fill and enjoy!
64
Cocktail Table
This handy little cocktail table features simple
joinery that yields a classic appearance with no
visible fasteners. Easy to build, you could make
several of these in one weekend for a complete set
to complement your outdoor seating. You can also
easily adjust the dimensions and fashion a coffee table or even a picnic table, resulting in an entire suite
of outdoor tables.
The pocket-hole screws are simple to use and when
combined with waterproof exterior glue, result in
a very strong joint that you can’t see unless you’re
looking from underneath. The tabletop slats are
spaced ¼" apart from each other for drainage, and
you can dress up this design by routing chamfers
or roundovers on some or all of the slats.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts:
Assembly:
Finishing:
Total:
1 – 2 hours
1 hour
1 hour
3 – 4 hours
65
Cocktail Table
A
TOOLS
Table saw
Miter saw (or circular or hand saw)
Pocket hole jig and corresponding drill bits
Drill/driver
24" bar clamps
Hammer
X5
B
X2
SUPPLIES
C
(1) 1 x 8 x 8'
(1) 2 x 4 x 4'
(4) Exterior-grade 1 ½" L brackets and screws
Exterior-grade pan head screws (suitable for pocket-hole joinery)
(4) Nylon glides
X2
D
X4
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
(5)
(2)
(2)
(4)
(4)
¾ x 2 x 11 ½"
¾ x 3 ¼ x 18"
¾ x 3 ¼ x 11 ½"
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 17 ¼"
¾ x 2 x 13 ¼"
E
X4
66
Cocktail Table
EXPLODED VIEW
¼" spacing between slats
C
B
A
A
B
A A
A
C
E
E
1 ½" L brackets
E
E
D
D
D
D
nylon glides
67
Cocktail Table
BUILDING STEPS
01 From your 1 x 8 stock, rip both a 2" wide and a
3 ¼" wide piece to cut slats and apron pieces
(A, B, C and E). After you have cut slats B and C,
you can rip the remaining piece of 3 ¼" stock to
finish cutting the 2" wide pieces.
02 Rip the 2 x 4 stock in half and cut the legs (D)
according to dimensions.
03 Gather all the slats and apron pieces together
and choose the best-looking sides that will be
exposed, then lightly mark the back sides with
an “X.”
04 Drill pocket holes in both ends of the back sides
of all the middle slats (A), long end slats (B) and
aprons (E).
05 Rip several ¼" spacers from scrap material.
68
Cocktail Table
BUILDING STEPS
06 Lay out the middle slats (A) and short end slats
(C) face down (pocket holes facing up) on your
assembly table with ¼" spacer blocks between
them.
07 Apply glue to both end edges of all middle slats,
as well as both end edges of short end slats.
Position long end slats in place (see diagram).
08 Clamp the assembly together, making sure all
edges and faces are flush. Allow to dry.
09 Drive pan head screws into all pocket holes,
making sure edges “suck in” tight and remain
flush. Drive screws carefully so as not to go
completely through your pocket holes. Remove
clamps when all screws are driven.
10 Glue and screw apron pieces (E) to the legs (D),
keeping top edge of aprons flush with top ends
of legs. You can keep the aprons flush with the
inside or outside face of the legs if you wish, but
in this example, we used ¼" spacers to set them
back from the inside face.
69
Cocktail Table
BUILDING STEPS
11 Place table top assembly face down and center
leg/apron assembly upside down on the bottom
of the table top, leaving a 7 8 " overhang from
table edges to outside faces of legs on all four
sides.
12 Mark locations for “L” bracket placement and
drill 1 8 " pilot holes ¼" deep in the corresponding
holes. Drive screws, making sure the leg/apron
assembly draws in tight and remains centered.
13 Mark center location on the bottoms of all four
legs and drill a 1 16 " pilot hole about ¼" deep.
Hammer in nylon glides, which will prevent the
legs from wicking up moisture from the ground
or deck.
14 Break all edges with sandpaper or rout a
roundover around the table top. Finish with a
waterproofing finish according to manufacturer
directions.
70
Cocktail Table
STEPS TO POCKET HOLE JOINERY
01 The essentials of a basic pocket hole joinery
set (from upper left to lower right): the jig for
drilling at a predetermined angle, special drill
bit with collar stop that leaves a hole with a
flat bottom, hex key for collar stop adjustment,
square-drive drill bit (most pocket hole screws
take this type of bit), and pan-head pocket hole
screws. Note the sharp points and aggressive
threads of the screws, as well as the flat bottom of the screw head. This is what allows the
screws to self-tap and seat perfectly flat against
the flat-bottomed drill hole, making for a very
tight, strong joint.
02 Insert the drill bit until the collar stop rests on
top and make sure the tip does not come in contact with the bottom of the jig (leave about 1 8 "+).
You may also mount the jig to your
workspace, but this is optional.
03 Center the stock to be drilled, making sure the
bottom of your work piece is resting squarely and securely on the bottom of the jig. Also
make sure you will be drilling into the back of
your stock – not the face, or side with the best
appearance. Clamp the piece into the jig and
carefully drill down through the guide holes,
withdrawing the bit after drilling part-way to
clear out debris.
04 Clamp the stock in place to its mating piece
(spreading glue on the surfaces if desired),
making sure to keep the edges and faces flush
where needed. Gently drive screws through
the drilled holes, stopping when the joint is
drawn tight. Driving the screws too aggressively increases the chances of driving them right
through the bottom of the drilled hole.
05 Unclamp the piece and you have a very secure
joint with fasteners that are invisible from the
face.
71
Corn Hole
PROJECT PLAN
Build a regulation size cornhole set and
start perfecting your game.
The simple construction of this outdoor
activity makes it an ideal weekend or
even after-work project.
Once the frame is constructed, angled
supports are installed to create the lift
needed.
All dimensions are specced to the
American Cornhole Organization’s (ACO)
regulations.
From there, a plywood board is installed,
with its signature circle cutout, and
everything is sanded and protected. Then
it’s just a matter of time and getting a few
throw bags before an official game can
ensue.
The set features handle cut-outs so you
can easily carry both boards to wherever
you choose to play.
Using just a few YellaWood® boards and
some plywood, the game takes shape in
a few steps.
BUILD TIME
4
HRS
DIFFICULTY
COST
$ $ $ $ $
BuildYella.com
72
Corn Hole
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
TOOLS
WOOD STOCK
4x2"x4"x8'
1x
(actual: 1 ½" x 3 ½" x 8')
4'x8'x½" plywood
Chop saw
(or hand or
circular saw)
HARDWARE
Table saw
Drill / driver
Jig saw
Clamps
Measuring
tape
Compass
Hammer
Square
Sanding
block
½ LB BOX
2 ½" wood screws
APPROX. 20x
1 ½" wood screws
3
4x
8
" Drill bit
4" long x 3 8" carriage bolts*
3
8 " washers
3 " wingnuts
8
*Galvanized hardware is the best option, as it
provides an extra dimension of weather-proofing.
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
2
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
1
HRS
FINISHING
+
1
TOTAL
=
HRS
4
HRS
73
Corn Hole
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUT LIST: DIAGRAMS
2x4x8' STOCK
4 BOARDS
48"
21"
A
A
B
B
A
A
B
B
3 ½" (actual board width)
DETAIL
1 ¾"
C
A
D
C
1 ¼" height
C
D
13"
4'x8'x½" PLYWOOD
1 SHEET
1 ¾"
C
29˚
A
4"
6"
C
3
8
"
1 ¾"
radius
cutout
drill-bit
hole
18"
48"
24"
E
12"
E
9"
6" diameter
CUTLIST: TEXT
COUNT
PART
STOCK
4x
4x
4x
1x
2x
A
B
C
D
E
2x4
2x4
2x4
2x4
4x8 ply
Note:
DIMENSION
3 ½ x 1 ½ x 48"
3 ½ x 1 ½ x 21"
3 ½ x 1 ½ x 13"
3 ½ x 1 ½ x 18"
24" x 48" x ½"
Because this is a simple piece, there
are no direct measurements based on
pre-assembled portions.
with an angle cut @ 29°
Feel free to cross-cut or rip-cut all of the
pieces in the cut list prior to assembly.
74
Corn Hole
TOP
Note:
measure your stock.
24"
48"
LEFT
48"
12"
9
10
°
4"
50 ¾"
75
Corn Hole
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
SEQUENCE OF
BUILD
1: FRAME
2: ANGLED SUPPORTS
3: SUPPORT BRACE
4: BOARD SURFACE
6: FINISHING & ACCESSORIES
76
Corn Hole
STEP 1:
FRAME
Note:
To limit redundancy, the instructions
below are for one cornhole board.
Repeat each step for the second
board in the set.
1
2
3
Cut parts (A) and (B) to size.
We’ll begin with the handle cutout, found on
one side of the board set. First, draw the 4"
x 6" outline and ease a curve based on the
diagram provided on Page 74.
Then use a jigsaw to cut on this line,
creating a handle.
4
5
6
To make the frame, arrange parts (A) and
(B) on a flat surface in a rectangle as shown.
Keep the edges flush and the angles at
90 degrees (use a square to ensure right
angles).
Tip: When arranging the rectangle frames for
both sets, put the two (A)s with the handle
cutout in a mirroring orientation so that, when
fully assembled, the plywood board will be on
the inside of the person carrying the set.
Use two 2 ½" wood screws at each corner
to attach the boards to each other.
You can also cross-cut all the pieces in the
cut list. The following instructions assume
that the base-line cuts have been made.
FRAME
77
Corn Hole
STEP 2:
ANGLED SUPPORTS
7
8
9
At the bottom of part (C), mark a line at a 29˚
angle from one of the corners. You can also
use a compound miter saw to dial in to 29˚ if
you have one.
Cut along this line with a miter saw or chop
saw.
At the top of part (C), mark a point that is
1 ¾" from the top and 1 ¾" from the edges.
This is the center of the circle.
10
11
12
Using a compass, draw a semi-circle with a
1 ¾" radius.
Cut along the circle line with a jigsaw.
Using a 3 8" drill bit, make a hole at the
center of the circle you marked.
ANGLED SUPPORTS
78
Corn Hole
STEP 2:
ANGLED SUPPORTS
13
14
15
On the outside of part (A), mark a point 4"
from the left edge and 1 ¾" from the top
edge.
Tip: Direct-measure your board stock’s
width and use half of this number in place of
the 1 ¾" for a more precise mid-point. 1 ¾"
is based on a 3 ½"-width 2x4.
Using a ⅜3 8" drill bit, make a hole at this point.
16
17
18
Connect part (C) to part (A) with a 3 8 "
carriage bolt. Use a hammer if needed.
Install the washer and wingnut to secure the
angled supports.
Repeat these steps on the other side of the
frame to attach the second angled support.
ANGLED SUPPORTS
79
Corn Hole
STEP 3:
SUPPORT BRACE
19
20
Position part (D) between parts (C), making
sure that it is about an inch off the work
surface.
Use two 2 ½" wood screws at each end to
attach part (D) to parts (C).
SUPPORT BRACE
80
Corn Hole
STEP 4:
BOARD SURFACE
21
22
23
On part (E), mark a point that is 12" from
the left and right edges and 9" from the top
edge.
Using a compass, draw a circle with a 3"
radius.
At the center of the circle, drill a 3⅜ 8" hole.
24
25
26
Insert the jigsaw blade into this hole and
proceed to cut out the circle.
Place part (E) on the frame, making sure all
the edges are flush.
Attach at the four corners using 1 ½" wood
screws. Then use screws at 12-inch intervals
along the perimeter of the board.
BOARD SURFACE
81
Corn Hole
FINISHING & ACCESSORIES
Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend an annual application of a water
27
28
29
Ease any sharp edges with a medium-grit
the wood.
Refer to buildyella.com for creative
cornhole finishing ideas to inspire how to
paint or decorate the boards.
Add the throw bags of your choice. (You
can spray fabrics with Scotchgard™ to
add a layer of protection from outdoor
elements.)
CONGRATULATIONS! ENJOY YOUR NEW CORNHOLE GAME SET.
82
Corn Hole
GALLERY OF IMAGES
83
Daytripper Chair
This chair is made up of two interlocking pieces that
can be taken apart for easy storage or transport.
When set up, the chair is sturdy, comfortable, and
bears a simple elegance. You can break it down and
easily carry it to the beach or a little league game.
Or keep a couple on hand in storage for when you
need extra outdoor seating.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 2 hours
Finishing: 2 hours
84
Daytripper Chair
A
TOOLS
Table saw
Drill/driver
18
" drill bit
Jig saw
X2
B
X2
SUPPLIES
(2) 2 x 6 x 8'
(2) 1 x 6 x 8'
1 8 " x 24" x 48" hardboard for templates
2" deck screws
C
X1
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
(2)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(11)
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 36"
1 ½ x 5 x 34"
¾ x 3 ½ x 23"
¾ x 2 ½ x 23"
¾ x 2 x 23"
D
X2
E
X 11
85
Daytripper Chair
Back leg detail
A
2 ¾"
2 ¾"
2 ¾"
5 ½"
18"
½" radius on all
36"
corners
Seat leg detail
B
2 ½"
2 ½"
2 ½"
5"
17"
34"
C
Exploded view
E
½" spaces between all slats
E
B
20"
A
A
D
B
12 ½"
23"
D
18 ¾"
Top slat detail
23"
9"
9"
1¾"
Two 1" diameter holes
joined w/ jig saw
86
Daytripper Chair
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut your 2 x stock to length for the back legs
(A) and seat legs (B), then lay out the curves
according to the dimensions on the illustration
detail (see special instructions for laying out
curves). To round the corners of your legs, lay
a 25-cent piece in each corner and trace it to
achieve what amounts to a ½" radius. You may
find it easier to first lay out the curves on a
piece of hardboard and make a pattern. This
will ensure consistent pieces and you’ll have
the pattern for later use if you decide to build
more chairs.
02 Cut the top slat (C), seat supports (D) and slats
(E) to dimensions on the cut list. On your top
slat (C), mark two points 9" in from each end and
centered 1 ¾" from the top and bottom edges,
then drill two 1" diameter holes at those points.
Connect the outside edges of those two holes
with a straightedge and cut those lines with a jig
saw to create a hand-grip hole.
03 Begin assembly by attaching the seat supports
(D) to the back legs (A) according to the
dimensions in the illustration. You may have to
use a framing square to make sure the supports
are square on the legs.
04 Start attaching slats by beginning with the top
slat (C) flush with the top edges of the back legs
(A). Use ½" spacers to continue attaching 5 more
slats (E). Make sure all slats are evenly spaced
and square to the legs.
05 Attach the remaining six slats (E) to the seat legs
(B), beginning with the front slat flush to front
edges of the legs. Again, use ½" spacers and
keep slats square to the legs.
87
Daytripper Chair
BUILDING STEPS
06 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth, apply a
waterproofing finish according to manufacturer
directions, interlock the two components
and relax!
TIP: This is one of those projects that may
be more easily sanded and finished without
all the pieces connected. If you choose this
method, do an initial assembly without glue to
make sure all pilot holes and edges line up and
appear to your liking. Then disassemble, sand
smooth, and reassemble with glue and screws.
88
Daytripper Chair
LAYING OUT CURVES
00 When you need to lay out curved lines, there
are many different methods you may use.
The following technique is one of the easiest
and requires only that you know the piece’s
final length and width, as well as a piece of
hardboard or other pliable material that can
easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent
curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs
from the daytripper chair as an example, but
you can use the concepts for any of the projects
featured in this section.
01 After cutting your raw stock to length, measure
up from the bottom edge on both ends and
mark the width of the piece (2 ¾" in this
example). Then, measure down from the top
edge along the centerline and mark the same
measurement.
02 Drive finish nails into your assembly table at
each end at the bottom corners of your stock,
place your piece of hardboard against those
nails and push up along the centerline until the
edge of your hardboard touches your mark at
the centerline (you may have to push and bend
the nails to make sure your hardboard edge
intersects the bottom corners properly). Hold
the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the
edge to get your curve.
03 Tack two more nails into the assembly table at
the 2 ¾" marks along the edge of both ends and
place your hardboard against them. Push along
the centerline until the edge of the hardboard
touches the top edge of the stock and trace that
curved line.
04 Your result is two parallel and consistent curves
exactly 2 ¾" apart from each other along the
entire length of the stock. Make your cut with
a jig saw or band saw, leaving the line on your
finished piece, and then sand cuts smooth until
you just remove the pencil line.
89
Daytripper Table
The perfect complement to the daytripper chair plan,
this table folds nearly flat for easy storage or
transport. The gentle curves and use of pivot and
lock dowels give this project an air of elegant craftsmanship that belies its simplicity in construction.
You might want to make templates for the legs and
stretchers, because once your friends see this table
in action, they’ll want you to build them one —
or more!
BUILD TIME
*Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws
90
Daytripper Table
TOOLS
A
Table saw
Jig saw
Drill/driver
Compass
Clamps
1
1
16 " and 8 " drill bits
78
" spade bit
Hammer
Nail set
X4
B
X2
SUPPLIES
C
(3) 1 x 6 x 8'
¾" x 72" hardwood dowel
¼" x 12" hardwood dowel
1 ½" deck screws
6d galvanized finish nails
X 11
D
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
(4)
(2)
(11)
(1)
(2)
(2)
¾ x 4 x 25"
¾ x 2 ¾ x 21 ½"
¾ x 1 ¾ x 16 ½"
¾ dia. x 13"
¾ dia. x 14 5 8 "
¼ dia. x 1 ¾"
E
F
X1
X2
X2
91
Daytripper Table
C
¼" space between all slats
B
E
A
B
A
D
A
F
A
Stretcher detail
2¼"
1 5 8"
1
B
7 8"
dia.
7 8"
8
"
dia.
1" radius
Leg detail
(center)
1 3 16"
2 3 8"
1 3 16"
78
A
4"
dia.
1½" radius on all corners
92
Daytripper Table
BUILDING STEPS
Cut the legs (A) and stretchers (B) to length
according to the cut list. Lay out the curves
and mark the center points for all holes to be
drilled (see special instructions “How to lay
out curves”). For the ½" radius corners on the
stretchers (B), simply trace the outline of a
25-cent piece. The radius on the legs (A) must
be at least 1" to allow the legs to fold easily into
one another. You can use a compass to get the
exact measurement you want, or simply trace
the bottom of a glue bottle or any other round
object that measures more than 2" in diameter.
Cut the curves, drill the holes and make the
slots in all pieces. You can clamp 2 pieces
together and cut them at the same time, or
make a hardboard template to keep and use
for future projects.
Rip your remaining 1 x 6 stock to 1 ¾" wide and
cut 11 slats (C) 16 ½" long. Place one slat on top
of the stretchers (B) at the end with the slot (not
the hole) and attach with glue and screws. Leave
½" overhang on the front edge and 1" on either
end.
Cut all dowels to length, turn the stretchers/
one slat assembly over and slip one table dowel
(E) through the outer legs and stretchers at the
end opposite the attached slat. Make sure the
dowel ends are flush with the outside face of the
stretchers and attach with glue and 6d finish nail
(drill a 1 16 " pilot hole through the edge of
the stretcher and into the dowel, then drive the
nail below edge surface of the stretcher with a
nail set).
Attach remaining slats (C) with glue and
screws, making sure the slats are square to the
stretchers and the edges line up. Use ¼" spacer
blocks to keep gaps consistent.
93
Daytripper Table
BUILDING STEPS
05 Turn the assembly over and attach the inner
legs by setting them between the outer legs and
sliding the pivot dowel (D) through the center
dowel holes in all 4 legs. Attach remaining table
dowel (E) by inserting it through the dowel
holes in the inner legs. Pin dowel (E) to the inner
legs and the pivot dowel (D) to the outer legs
with glue and galvanized finish nails.
06 Install lock dowels (F) through the pivot dowel
(D). Place a piece of folded paper between the
legs on either side to leave enough space for
easy movement during opening and closing,
then drill ¼" holes through the pivot dowel. Coat
the lock dowels with glue, insert them into the
¼" holes and pin them in place with finish nails.
07 Sand all edges and surfaces, and apply a
waterproof finish according to manufacturer
specifications. Your table is ready to set on
your deck or be folded away for transport and
easy storage!
TIP: This is one of those projects that may be
more easily sanded and finished without all the
pieces connected. If you choose this method, do
an initial assembly without glue to make sure
all pilot holes and edges line up and appear to
your liking. Then disassemble, sand smooth,
and reassemble with glue and screws.
94
Daytripper Table
Laying Out Curves
curved line. This illustration uses the curved
legs from the daytripper chair as an example,
but you can use the concepts for any of the 20
projects featured in this section.
edge along the centerline and mark the same
measurement.
the hardboard steady and lightly trace along
the edge to get your curve.
curved line.
95
Doghouse
PROJECT PLAN
Build an outdoor shelter for your furry
companion.
This sturdy house will keep your best
friend warm and dry, and you’ll have
fun making it. This design features a
removable roof for easier cleaning, and
the floor is raised off the ground to keep
loyal companions protected from rainy
weather.
This plan will accommodate dogs up to
60 pounds, but it can easily be modified
to fit a dog of any size.
BUILD TIME
6
HRS
DIFFICULTY
BuildYella.com
96
Doghouse
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUT LIST
36"
A - E:
Cut from ¾" plywood
36"
A
X2
40"
18"
B
X2
40"
34 ½"
C
X1
48"
27 5 8"
X1
D
48"
27 3 8"
X1
E
F - H:
Cut from 1x4 stock
17"
F
1 5 8"
G
1 5 8"
H
1 5 8"
X8
(Note actual thickness = ¾")
291/4"
X4
461/2"
X2
97
Doghouse
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUT LIST
TOOLS
Circular saw
Table saw
Jigsaw
Drill / driver
7
/64" countersink drill bit
Clamps
Straight-edge
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Stapler
Hammer
Utility knife
Square
Brad nailer
Damp rag to wipe up
excess glue
(2) ¾ x 36 x 36" (exterior plywood)
(2) ¾ x 40 x 18" (exterior plywood)
(1) ¾ x 40 x 34½" (exterior plywood)
(1) ¾ x 48 x 27 5 8 " (exterior plywood)
(1) ¾ x 48 x 27 3 8 " (exterior plywood)
(8) ¾ x 17 x 15 8 "
(4) ¾ x 291/4 x 15 8 "
(2) ¾ x 461/2 x 15 8 "
SUPPLIES
(3) ¾" x 4' x 8' exterior plywood
(2) 1 x 4 x 10'
2" deck screws
15# roofing felt
One bundle asphalt shingles
38
" galvanized staples
¾" roofing nails
1½" galvanized brads or finish nails
A few scrap 2x4s
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
2
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
3
HRS
FINISHING
+
1
TOTAL
=
HRS
6
HRS
98
Doghouse
G
H
E
D
H
G
A
B
F
B
F
C
A
99
Doghouse
Front layout
A
36"
7"
16"
18"
4 1/4"
14"
36"
100
Doghouse
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
01
Cross-cut and rip the sides (B), bottom (C), long roof
(D) and short roof (E) from exterior plywood to the
dimensions on the cut list. Unless you are working
with a large support for your table saw, you should
make your first cuts from a full sheet of plywood with
a circular saw and straight edge as a guide. You can
then trim or cut smaller sheets to size on your table
saw.
01
To make the front and back pieces (A), start by
02
cutting two pieces from your plywood measuring
36" square. Clamp the two pieces together, keeping
all four edges flush and lay out the roof angle cuts
according to the measurements on the illustration
detail. Using a straight edge as a guide, make the
angled cuts with your circular saw.
02
Attach the sides (B) to the back (A). First, drill
03
countersunk pilot holes through the face of the back
piece into the edge of the side pieces. Apply glue to
the joint and fasten with 2" deck screws.
Lay out the door opening on the front piece (A)
04
03
according to the measurements on the illustration
detail. Drill a pilot hole inside your opening’s marks
large enough to insert your jigsaw blade and cut out
the opening.
Place two scrap 2" x 4" pieces on edge inside the
05
side/back assembly and place the bottom piece (C)
on top of them. Drill countersunk pilot holes through
the sides and back and into the edge of the bottom
piece all the way around, spacing your holes about
6" apart. Remove the bottom piece, apply glue to the
three edges with pilot holes, place it back inside the
assembly and attach with 2" deck screws.
04
05
101
Doghouse
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
Attach the front piece (A) with the same pilot hole,
06
glue and 2" deck screws as described in Step 3.
Make the roof by drilling pilot holes through the face
07
of piece (E) and into the edge of the shorter piece
(D) along the 48" long edge. Apply glue to the edge
of piece (D) and attach with 2" deck screws. This step
is easiest to do with the roof panels standing up on
their shorter edge (front or back as opposed to top or
bottom) on a flat surface.
06
Cut four 17" sections from your 1x4. Then, rip these
08
in half so you have 8 pieces approximately 1 5/8" wide
(F). Attach the first trim piece (F) on the side face of
the doghouse, keeping the bottom edge flush with
the bottom and one edge flush with the front of the
doghouse. Next, place another trim piece on the front
of the doghouse.
07
To assure a tight fit for the roof trim, start by cutting
09
a 45° angle on one end of a rake (G), hold it in
place under the roof edge and mark the other end
at the bottom edge of the roof. Cut a parallel 45° at
that mark and attach with glue and brads. Repeat
this step for the other three roof rake pieces (G).
Once they are attached with brads, go back and drill
countersink pilot holes through the roof top into the
rakes at 6" intervals, then attach with 2" deck screws.
08
For the fascia (H), measure between the rakes or
10
hold a piece of trim and mark it and cut it to length.
Once you’ve ensured the fascia fits between the
rakes, rip a 45° bevel along one edge to match the
bottom edge of the roof. Attach with glue and brads,
then countersunk 2" deck screws.
09
10
102
Doghouse
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
Roll roofing felt out over the roof and let it overhang.
11
Attach felt to the roof with staples, then trim it flush
with a utility knife. To make a starter strip for your
shingles, score a line on the back of a shingle along
the top edge of the cellophane/adhesive strip. Bend
at the line and break the shingle apart. Place it on the
roof face up with the adhesive along the bottom edge,
keeping the shingle edges flush or overhanging the
roof edge just a bit. Attach with roofing nails (3 along
the top of the starter strip). Continue along the entire
bottom edge of both sides.
11
Apply shingles starting from the bottom, overlapping
12
each course and staggering the shingle slots/seams.
12
13
Finish the peak by applying ridge caps. Take leftover
shingles and cut the tab sections off and attach them
on the ridge perpendicular to the ridge line. Overlap
them so that the tar strip is just covered. The last
shingle will have two nail heads visible. You can apply
a bead of silicone sealant over them for added water
protection.
13
Fill all countersunk screw holes with wood putty, make
14
sure all nail heads are set below the surface, and
sand everything smooth. Apply exterior paint and/or
finish according to manufacturer recommendations.
14
103
PROJECT PLAN
Build a comfortable and sturdy adirondack
chair for two.
There are many variations of the classic
adirondack chair. This particular version
features straightforward construction
and common materials.
This chair makes for a satisfying project
that can be built and finished in one
weekend. And when properly finished, it
will provide years of comfortable seating.
Note: For this project, it is recommended
that you do a dry assembly first to make
sure everything fits and lines up. Then
disassemble, sand smooth, apply finish
and reassemble the chair with glue and
appropriate fasteners.
BUILD TIME
14
HRS
DIFFICULTY
BuildYella.com
104
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUT LIST
A
X2
B
X2
C
X2
D
X1
E
X1
F
X1
G
X2
H
X2
I
X2
J
X3
K
X2
L
X 12
M
X1
N
X2
O
X 10
P
X2
105
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUT LIST
TOOLS
Miter saw
Table saw
Jigsaw
Hand saw
Drill/driver
1/8" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
Countersink drill bit
Router
1
/2" Radius roundover router bit
Socket set
Framing/combination squares
Clamps
(2)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(3)
(2)
(12)
(1)
(2)
(10)
(2)
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
SUPPLIES
(4) 2 x 6 x 8'
(1) 2 x 4 x 8'
(8) 1 x 6 x 8'
2" and 3" deck screws
(2) 3/8 x 3 ½" galvanized carriage
bolts
(2) 3/8" galvanized flat washers
and nuts
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 31"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 22 ¾"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 19 ¾"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 60"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 60"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 67"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 9 ½"
1 ½ x 2 ¾ x 8"
¾ x 3 7/8 x 8"
¾ x 3 7/8 x 30"
¾ x 5 ½ x 30"
¾ x 5 ½ x 27"
¾ x 2 ¼ x 60"
¾ x 5 ½ x 24 ½"
¾ x 2 ¼ x 24 ½"
¾ x 2 x 6"
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
4
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
5
HRS
FINISHING
+
3
TOTAL
=
HRS
12
HRS
106
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
J
J
J
L
H
G
H
I
G
I
O
N
K
F
P
E
K
O
A
C
N
B
M
B
P
A
D
C
107
Finished View
Armrest detail
2 ¾" radius
K
5 ½"
3"
30"
Splat detail
Tabletop detail
4 5/8"
3 7/8"
Cut along
this line
27" L
27"
L
L L
L
L
L
¼" gaps between
27"
slats
30"
21 5/8"
J
J
J
2 1/4"
Rear seat slat detail
Brace detail
2"
2 1/4"
5 ½"
2 1/4"
P
N
5 ½"
24 ½"
6"
¾"
108
Rear leg detail
Straight line between these 2 points
Bottom point of front curve
Begin back curve here
17"
5 ¾"
½"
4"
5 ½"
1 ¼"
A
4 3/8"
4"
1¾"
3 ¾"
31"
Copy top & front profile from rear leg detail
5¾"
17"
2 3/8"
B
20°
22¾"
1¾"
14"
Center support detail
109
Front leg detail
C
3 ½"
19 ¾"
Front rail detail
30"
3"
5½"
D
60"
Rear cross member detail
30"
E
7 ¾"
2"
2 ¼"
5 ½"
22 ¼"
60"
Repeat measurements on the other side
110
Seat back support detail
F
5 ½"
3 ¼"
3 ¼"
5 ¾"
15 5/8"
27 ½"
20° bevel cuts
67"
Repeat measurements on the other side
Trim after installing
armrests
Table upright detail
8"
3 ½"
G
9 ½"
Table brace detail
2 ¾"
H
8"
Table panel detail
3 7⁄8"
I
8"
111
Front seat slat detail
M
¾"
2 ¼"
use a ½" radius
roundover router bit to
round this edge
Seat slat detail
2 ¼"
O
24 ½"
112
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
01
Cut all parts to size, referring to detail illustrations
for laying out curved, tapered and otherwise shaped
pieces. When cutting rear legs (A) and center
supports (B), lay out and cut one rear leg and use
that as a pattern to lay out the other rear leg and the
seat curve portion of the center support.
01
Measure and mark the center points of the front rail
02
(D), rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F)
after they have been cut and shaped to size.
Attach front rail (D) to rear legs (A), keeping tops and
03
outside edges flush. Attach with 3" screws through
the face of the front rail (see photo 01).
02
On a flat and level work surface, attach the front
rail/rear leg assembly to the front legs (C). Make
sure the bottoms of the rear legs sit flat on the work
surface and use a framing square to position the
front leg properly, keeping the face of the front rail
¼" back from the front edge of the front legs (C)
(see photo 02). Clamp in place and attach with 3"
screws through the face of the front leg and into the
edge of the front rail (see photo 03). Now pre-drill for
the carriage bolts with a 3/8" drill bit. Your bolt should
pass through front leg (C) and rear leg (A), leaving
enough room to accept a washer and bolt on
the interior.
03
Measure 7" on either side of your center marks on
04–05
the front rail (D) and rear cross member (E). Attach
center supports (B) to the front rail with 3" screws,
keeping the inner edge of center support on those
lines 7" off center (see photo 04). Place rear cross
member (E) on top of the rear legs, keeping outside
edges flush and lining up the bottom edge of the
cross member with the point at which you began
the curved line on the back of the rear legs (A). See
detailed illustration and exploded view for proper
placement. Attach center supports (B) to
the underside of the rear cross member with 3"
screws, again keeping the inner edge of the center
support on the 7" line on the rear cross member (see
photo 05).
04
05
113
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
06 Attach armrests (K) to top of front legs (C), using 3"
screws. Position armrest to sit 2 ¾" beyond the front
edge of front leg (C) and overhang ½" from the inside
face of front leg (see photo 06).
07 Cut two temporary braces to 19 ¾" long and set
06
them vertically against rear legs. Position the rear
edge of the braces at 24" from the front edge of
the front legs (C) (see photo 07). The armrests (K)
should rest level on top of the braces. Clamp or
temporarily screw braces into place. Make guide
marks on seat back support (F) at 3 ¾" in from both
ends for armrest alignment. Clamp back support
(F) to armrests (K) with your guide marks along the
inside edge of the armrests. Attach together with 2"
screws from underneath (see photo 08). The seat
back support (F) will protrude past the outside edges
of the armrest (K). Trim off protruding edges to line
up with outside edge of armrests (K) (see photo 09).
07
08 Assemble center table framing (parts G and H) as
shown in the exploded view illustration. Make sure
it fits between center supports (B) and then remove
and attach front slats (I) (see photo 10). Attach front
slat (M) to the top of front rail (D), keeping the front
edge of the slat even with the front edge of the
front legs (C). Position (G/H/I) assembly between
center supports (B). Keep the top level with the back
support (F) and square with the top of front seat slat
(see photo 11). Clamp in place and attach with 3"
screws through center supports (B) into assembly
uprights (G) (see photo 12).
08
09
09 Mark the center of the center table top slat (J) and
line it up with the center of seat back support,
keeping back edges flush. The front edge of center
table slat (J) should overhang the front of table front
slats by 5". Attach two more table top slats (J) with
¼" spacers, keeping back edges flush. The sides of
table top slats should overhang the side of center
table by about ½".
10
114
CONSTRUCTION
BUILDING STEPS
After cutting the tapers on splats (L), lay two of
10
them on a flat surface with their square edges (not
the tapered ones) together and their bottoms flush.
Place two more splats on either side of these with
straight edges against tapered edges for a total of
six splats. Square a line along the bottom to align
with the bottoms of the middle two splats, and then
measure and lay out the curved top (see splat detail
illustration on page 97). With a jigsaw, cut along
bottom square line and curved top cut line. Do this
for both sets of back splats. Clamp a scrap piece of
lumber under the rear cross member (E) and set the
bottom of the splats on that scrap.
11
Align the ¼" space between the middle 2 splats with
11
the center of the curved cut of both the rear cross
member (E) and seat back support (F), and place
¼" spacers between the other four splats. Attach
through the face of the splats and into both the rear
cross member and seat back support (one 2" screw
per splat into the rear cross member, two 2" screws
per splat into the seat back support) (see photo 13).
You may now remove temporary vertical bracing.
12
Begin placing seat slats (O), starting with one slat
12
13
tight against the front seat slat (M) and keeping ¼"
spacing between the rest of the slats. Place the rear
seat slat last, making sure the curve of the rear slat
fits the curve of the splats. Attach with 2" screws.
13 Position armrest braces (P) against front legs (C).
Drill 1/8" pilot holes through (P) into (C) and from the
top of armrest (K) into (P). Attach with 2" screws (see
photo 14).
14
14 Make sure all pieces line up and are flush, sanding
and trimming when necessary. Then disassemble,
sand all surfaces smooth, apply waterproofing
finish according to manufacturer instructions and
reassemble with glue and screws. Now you’re ready
to place your piece of fine outdoor furniture and
enjoy!
15
115
GUIDE
LAYING OUT CURVES
A
B
When you need to lay out curved lines, there are
many different methods you may use. The following
technique is one of the easiest and requires only that
you know the piece’s final length and width, as well
as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that
can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent
curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs from
the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use
the concepts for any of the 20 projects featured in
this section.
A
After cutting your raw stock to length, measure
up from the bottom edge on both ends and mark
the width of the piece (2 ¾" in this example). Then,
measure down from the top edge along the centerline
and mark the same measurement.
BB
C
Drive finish nails into your assembly table at each
end at the bottom corners of your stock, place your
piece of hardboard against those nails and push up
along the centerline until the edge of your hardboard
touches your mark at the centerline (you may have to
push and bend the nails to make sure your hardboard
edge intersects the bottom corners properly). Hold
the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the edge
to get your curve.
CC
D
Tack two more nails into the assembly table at
place your hardboard against them. Push along the
centerline until the edge of the hardboard touches
the top edge of the stock and trace that curved line.
DD
E
Your result is two parallel and consistent curves
exactly 2¾" apart from each other along the entire
length of the stock. Make your cut with a jig saw or
band saw, leaving the line on your finished piece,
and then sand cuts smooth until you just remove the
pencil line.
EE
116
Double Rocker
Rock away those lazy summer evenings in this
roomy yet cozy rocker built for two. With its easy,
graceful curves and comfortable contours, you
can sit in comfort while explaining to friends and
guests just how you built such a complicated piece
of furniture. Just don’t tell them how simple it really
was, or they’ll be asking you to build one for them.
BUILD TIME
117
Double Rocker
TOOLS
A
Miter saw
Table saw
Jig saw
Drill/driver
1 8 " drill bit
Countersink drill bill
Square
Clamps
X9
B
X1
C
X1
D
X1
SUPPLIES
E
(3) 1 x 6 x 8'
(1) 2 x 4 x 8'
(9) 1 x 3 x 10'
1 ¼", 2" and 3" deck screws
X1
F
X1
G
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
(9)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(13)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(4)
(2)
(2)
X 13
H
¾ x 5 x 33"
¾ x 3 ½ x 48"
¾ x 3 ½ x 48"
¾ x 3 ½ x 46 ½"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 54 ¼"
¾ x 2 5 8 x 48"
¾ x 1 ½ x 49 ½"
¾ x 5 x 34 ½"
¾ x 5 x 18"
¾ x 5 ½ x 19 ¾"
¾ x 5 x 37¼"
¾ x 5 ½ x 30"
¾ x 2 x 6"
X2
I
X1
J
X2
K
X4
L
X2
M
X2
118
Double Rocker
A
A
A
A
A
L
D
A
A
A
G
E
M
B
L
C
J
G
I
F
M
K
H
K
J
¼" spacing between all slats (G) and slats (A)
119
Double Rocker
5 ½"
2"
M
6"
Brace Detail
J
Leg Detail
19 ¾"
Armrest Detail
2 ¾"
2 ¼"
L
2 ¾" radius
2 ¾"
30"
Seat supports detail
17 ½"
(A)
90°
20° bevels on slats (G)
4"
3 ½"
2 ½"
(B)
5"
H
cut along dotted line for part I
(F)
3 ¼"
(C)
32 ¾"
4 ½"
34 ¼"
34 ½"
Rocker detail
37 ¼"
2"
2 ¼"
5"
1"
90°
K
1 ¾"
18 5 8 "
cut away from outside rocker for leg (J)
cut away from inside rocker for seat support (H)
120
Double Rocker
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut all pieces to length and width according to
the cut list. When you lay out the rockers (K),
be sure to mark the two square lines on either
end (one at 2" and one at 1 ¾", see rocker detail
illustration) before you cut the curves. These will
serve as reference points for placement of legs
(J) and seat supports (H).
02 When laying out seat supports, cut two pieces
(H) at full size, then cut piece (I) using the dotted
lines on seat support detail illustration as a
guide. When cutting pieces H, I, J, K, L and M,
choose the best sides (faces) of your stock and
clamp them together face-to-face or back-toback and gang cut them (2 armrests at once,
2 legs at once, 2 rockers at once (twice), etc.)
Note on seat support detail that there are 4
seat slats that have 20° bevels, 2 on one edge
and 2 on both edges. Cut those so the face still
measures 1 ½".
03 Make a squaring jig on your assembly table to
aid you in laying out/attaching splats (A). Clamp
two straight objects (boards or four-foot levels)
to your table at a perfect right angle and then
place your splats face down with ¼" spacers
between them, making sure ends are tight to
the squaring jig.
04 Measure up 16" from bottom edges and square
a line across all 9 splats. Attach support (D) with
1 ¼" screws (two screws in every splat), keeping
bottom edge of support on that line.
05 Turn assembly over so faces are up. Attach
supports B and C to each other (see illustration)
with 2" screws, then place a scrap 1 x 4 under
support (D) and place B/C assembly under the
bottom end of splats so that the splat edges
line up with the bottom of edge (B) all the way
across and attach with 2" screws.
121
Double Rocker
BUILDING STEPS
06 When slats are secure, measure up 27" on the
outside edge of both end splats and lay out a
curve, connecting those two 27" marks with
the top of the middle splat at the center point
(see “Laying Out Curves” on page 9 for more
information.) Cut with a jig saw.
07 Choose your two inside rocker pieces (K) and
place your seat support (H) on the back side (not
face) of the rockers at your 1 ¾" marks, keeping
the bottom edge of H roughly flush with bottom
edge of rocker (K). The edges should line up very
closely, but don’t be concerned if they are not
perfect, you can sand everything smooth later.
Trace the edges of seat supports on the rockers
and cut with a jig saw.
08 Place legs (J) on the faces of your outside rocker
pieces (K), keeping the front edge of the legs
(straight edge) square with the 2" line you made
earlier on your rockers. Keep the corner of the
straight edge of the leg flush with the bottom
profile of the rocker (trim excess later) and
trace the leg outline on the rocker. Cut away
with a jig saw.
09 Assemble rockers (K), seat supports (H) and legs
(J) with glue and 1 ¼" screws (see illustration
for assistance). Trim the bottom of leg (J) to
follow rocker profile. Clamp both rocker/leg/seat
support assemblies together so that top edges
of rockers, front edges of legs and bottom edges
of seat supports (all square edges) all line up
with each other. You can now sand the bottom
profile of the rocker and the seat contour of seat
supports so they match perfectly.
10 Clamp one rocker/seat support/leg assembly
to your assembly table, making sure the top of
the rocker is level (independent of how level
your table is). Attach spreader (F) to both rocker
assemblies with 3" screws, keeping bottom edge
of (F) flush with bottom edges of (H) and the
face of (F) flush with the front edges of (H).
122
Double Rocker
BUILDING STEPS
11 Tack some scrap blocks to the inside of rocker
assemblies to assist in placing the splat
assembly (see seat support detail illustration
for placement). Cut two pieces of wood at 16
¾" long and tack those to the outside of rocker
assemblies as shown. These will aid in placing
the armrest/back support assembly.
12 Cut your half-lap joints on support (E) at both
ends, making sure there is exactly 48" of full
2 x 4 stock between them, then attach armrests
with 1 ¼" screws from underneath (you can
trim and sand the ends flush after assembly).
Place the armrest/support assembly on top of
your legs (J) and temporary braces. Make sure
armrests overhang both inside faces of legs
equally (about ¾") and there is 18" between
back edge of legs and front edge of support (E).
Attach armrests to top of legs with 2" screws.
13 Place splat assembly inside armrest/support
assembly, resting it on the temporary blocks
tacked to the inside of seat supports (H). After
making sure everything lines up and is tight,
drive 3" screws through the outside face of seat
support (H) and into edges of both supports (B)
and (C). Then drive 2" screws through the face
of splats and into support (E) (two screws
per splat).
14 Begin attaching slats (G) with 1 ¼" screws,
beginning at the back of the chair by using one
slat with one beveled edge and placing it tight
to the splats. Work toward the front using ¼"
spacers between all slats. Note on seat support
detail illustration where the rest of the beveled
slats are to be attached.
15 Attach braces (M) to the underside of armrests
and outside of legs using 2" screws.
123
Double Rocker
BUILDING STEPS
16 Sand all edges and joints flush, disassemble,
sand the rest of the surfaces of all components,
apply finish, and then reassemble with glue and
screws. Now you’re ready to rock!
124
Double Rocker
curved line. This illustration uses the curved
legs from the daytripper chair as an example,
but you can use the concepts for any of the 20
projects featured in this section.
edge along the centerline and mark the
same measurement.
the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the
edge to get your curve.
curved line.
125
Dream Dog House
PROJECT PLAN
Put together an abode that’s more than a
basic shelter for your best bud
This sturdy house will keep your best
friend warm and dry, and you’ll have
fun making it.
The design features a covered porch,
overhung gabled main roof, and five
windows to allow for air circulation and
provides a view of your furry friend’s
whole domain. The raised floor and
gabled main roof keeps loyal
companions protected from
rainy weather.
This plan will accommodate large dogs and
small dogs alike. Its sturdy construction
and quality materials will protect for years
to come.
BUILD TIME
10
HRS
DIFFICULTY
COST
$ $ $ $ $
BuildYella.com
126
Dream Dog House
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUTLIST (A - M)
65 ¼"
Cut from 4x4 stock
A
45˚
45˚
X2
38 ½"
B
45˚
45˚
X2
40 ½"
Cut from 2x4 stock
C
X 18
46"
D
X4
29"
E
X4
13 ¾"
F
X 12
43"
G
X2
11"
H
X4
30"
I
X4
16 ½"
J
X1
6"
K
X2
19 ¼"
L
X2
21"
M
X1
127
Dream Dog House
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUTLIST (N - Z)
32"
Cut from 5/4x6 stock
N
X8
16 ¾"
O
X8
4 ¼"
P
X8
32"
/4x6 stock ripped to 2"
5
2"
Q
X2
28 ¼"
Cut from 2x4 stock
R
55˚
55˚
X 10
20 ¾"
S
X4
40 ⅛"
55˚
T
X4
44"
55˚
U
X4
20"
55˚
V
X2
22"
45˚
W
45˚
X1
16 ¾"
X
X3
27 ⅞"
55˚
Y
X2
29 ¾"
45˚
Z
45˚
X1
128
Dream Dog House
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUTLIST (AA - II)
14"
Cut from 1x2 stock
AA
X 18
19 ½"
BB
X2
4"
Cut from 2x4 stock
CC
X4
36 ½"
DD
X1
28"
Cut from 4x4 stock
EE
1 ½"
X2
24 ½"
38 ½"
Cut from 2x4 stock
FF
74˚
74˚
X1
36 ½"
58 ½"
Cut from 1/2" plywood
GG
28 ¼"
X2
38 ½"
HH
21 ¼"
X1
58 ½"
Cut from 5/4x6 stock ripped
to 4 1/4"
II
4 ¼"
X2
129
Dream Dog House
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
TOOLS
WOOD STOCK
2X
1X
18X
4X
10X
2X
3X
3X
4x4x12'
4x4x6'
2x4x8'
2x4x10'
5/4
x6x8'
5/4 x6x10'
1x2x12'
4x8' plywood @ ½"
Miter saw
(or hand or
circular saw)
Table saw
Drill / driver
Hammer
Miter square
Measuring
tape
HARDWARE
APPROX. 1 LB BOX
2" deck screws
3" deck screws
6" deck screws
NAILS
Roofing nails (~100x)
Optional: finishing nails (~30x)
Nail gun
OTHER
Shingles
Roofing felt
Metal drip edge
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
3
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
6
HRS
FINISHING
+
1
TOTAL
=
HRS
10
HRS
130
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLED VIEW
Notes:
All measurements are
approximate.
Cut stock in the sequence
of steps because many
dimensions are directly
measured and will vary
based on actual stock and
construction.
Board dimensions can vary,
so be sure to measure your
stock.
TOP
~48"
~75"
FRONT
LEFT
~57"
131
Dream Dog House
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
1: PLATFORM
2: WALL FRAMING
3: LEFT AND RIGHT
WALL CLADDING
4: ROOF FRAMING
5: REMAINING CLADDING
AND WINDOW TRIM
6: ROOFING
132
Dream Dog House
STEP 1:
PLATFORM
CUTLIST
65 ¼"
Cut from 4x4 stock
A
45˚
45˚
X2
38 ½"
B
45˚
45˚
X2
40 ½"
Cut from 2x4 stock
C
X 18
section.
PLATFORM
133
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
PLATFORM
TOP
BOTTOM
LEFT / RIGHT
FRONT / BACK
PLATFORM
134
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 1:
PLATFORM
1
2
TIP:
Lay out and attach the first and last
board so that they overhang about
an inch. Then lay out the remaining
middle boards and adjust for even
spacing throughout before attaching
these.
Arrange parts (A) and (B) as shown and
fasten together with 6" wood screws.
Lay parts (C) on top of the foundation
with about a ¼" gap between each
board. The floorboards should overhang
the foundation by 1" all the way around.
Attach with 3" wood screws.
PLATFORM
135
Dream Dog House
STEP 2:
WALL FRAMING
CUTLIST
Cut from 2x4 stock
46"
30"
D
X4
I
X4
29"
16 ½"
E
J
X4
6"
13 ¾"
K
F
X1
X 12
X2
19 ¼"
43"
G
L
21"
11"
H
X2
X2
M
X4
X1
WALL FRAMING
136
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
WALL FRAMING
TOP
RIGHT
FRONT
WALL FRAMING
137
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
BUILD SEQUENCE
A. RIGHT WALL
B. LEFT WALL
C. BACK WALL
D. FRONT WALL
WALL FRAMING
138
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 2:
WALL FRAMING
A. RIGHT WALL
TOP
RIGHT
FRONT
3
4
5
Note:
Create a box with two parts each of (D)
and (E). Fasten them together with 3"
deck screws.
Insert part (G) so that it’s centered
between parts (E). Fasten them together
6
7
8
Insert part (F) into the wall assembly. See
diagram for spacing.
Create two window boxes with parts (F)
and (H). See diagram for spacing. When
these are complete, insert them into the
wall assembly as shown and attach with
3" deck screws.
Turn completed assembly 90˚ and position
it on the floorboards as shown. It should
be 1 ¾" from the right edge and ¾" from
the back edge of the platform. Attach with
3" deck screws.
This wall assembly will be created flat on
the ground, and then it will be lifted into
place and attached to the floorboards.
Note: It is not centered within (G). Fasten
WALL FRAMING
139
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 2:
WALL FRAMING
B. LEFT WALL
TOP
LEFT
FRONT
9
Repeat Right Wall (all of Step 2A) to make
an identical Left Wall.
WALL FRAMING
140
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 2:
WALL FRAMING
C. BACK WALL
TOP
RIGHT
BACK
10
11
To tie the walls together, use three parts
(I). Fasten with 3" deck screws.
Create a window box with parts (F) and
(J). See diagram for spacing. When this is
complete, insert it into the wall assembly
as shown and attach with 3" deck screws.
WALL FRAMING
141
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 2:
WALL FRAMING
D. FRONT WALL
TOP
RIGHT
FRONT
12
13
14
Position two parts (K) at the bottom
corners of the left and right walls. Attach
to the floorboards with 3" deck screws.
At the inside of each part (K), place a
part (L) vertically and attach with 3" deck
screws.
Place part (M) on top of parts (L) and
attach with 3" deck screws.
15
Finally, place part (I) at the top corners
of the left and right walls. Fasten with 3"
deck screws.
WALL FRAMING
142
Dream Dog House
STEP 3:
LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING
CUTLIST
32"
N
X8
16 ¾"
O
X8
4 ¼"
P
X8
32"
Q
2"
X2
LEFT AND RIGHT
WALL CLADDING
143
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
TOP
INSIDE LEFT
OUTSIDE RIGHT
FRONT
LEFT AND RIGHT
WALL CLADDING
144
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 3:
RIGHT WALL
16
17
Starting at the front edge of the right wall,
align part (N) so that it is flush with parts
(E). Attach with 2" deck screws. It will be
screwed into the wall framing behind.
Use screws at the top, middle, and
bottom of each piece. Continue with parts
(O) - (Q), making sure there are no gaps
between them.
18
LEFT WALL
Repeat Right Wall to make an identical
Left Wall.
LEFT AND RIGHT
WALL CLADDING
145
Dream Dog House
STEP 4:
ROOF FRAMING
CUTLIST
28 ¼"
Cut from 2x4 stock
R
55˚
55˚
X 10
20 ¾"
S
X4
ROOF FRAMING
146
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
ROOF FRAMING
TOP
LEFT
FRONT
ROOF FRAMING
147
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 4:
ROOF FRAMING
19
20
21
Join two parts (R) together as shown
using 3" deck screws. Repeat this twice
so that you have three assemblies.
To tie these three assemblies together,
use parts (S). Refer to the diagram for
exact placement. Fasten together with 2"
deck screws. You’ll need to toenail the
screws.
When the roof framing assembly is
complete, have a friend help you lift it and
place it on top of the walls. It should be
flush with the front and back walls.
22
Use 3" deck screws to fasten the roof
framing assembly to the walls, starting by
securing it to parts (R) and then to parts
(S) for added stability.
ROOF FRAMING
148
Dream Dog House
STEP 5:
FRONT AND BACK CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM
CUTLIST
FRONT AND BACK CLADDING
40 ⅛"
27 ⅞"
55˚
T
55˚
Y
X4
X2
29 ¾"
44"
45˚
55˚
U
Z
45˚
X4
X1
20"
WINDOW TRIM
55˚
V
X2
Cut from 1x2 stock
14"
22"
45˚
AA
X 18
W
45˚
X1
19 ½"
BB
16 ¾"
X2
X
X3
REMAINING CLADDING
AND WINDOW TRIM
149
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
FRONT VIEW OF
BACK CLADDING
LEFT SIDE WITH
WINDOW TRIM
FRONT VIEW OF
FRONT CLADDING
FRONT VIEW WITH
WINDOW TRIM
TOP VIEW WITH
WINDOW TRIM
REMAINING CLADDING
AND WINDOW TRIM
150
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 5:
BACK WALL
FRONT WALL
WINDOW TRIM
23
24
Starting at the left edge of the back wall,
attach part (T) with 2" deck screws. It will
be screwed into the wall framing behind.
Use screws at the top, middle, and bottom
of each piece.
Continue with parts (U) - (X), making sure
there aren’t any gaps between them.
25
26
Starting at the left edge of the front wall,
attach part (T) with 2" deck screws. It will
be screwed into the wall framing behind.
Use screws at the top, middle, and bottom
of each piece.
Continue with parts (U), (Y), and (Z),
making sure there are no gaps between
them.
27
28
To frame each window on the side walls,
you’ll need four parts (AA). The window on
the back wall requires two parts (AA) and
two parts (BB).
Place each trim piece so that it is flush
with the inside edge of the window cutout
and attach. For a clean look, finishing
nails are recommended, but 2" screws will
work as well.
Tip: Test-fit all pieces prior to attaching so
you know the fit. If the last piece extends,
measure the overhang and rip to fit.
REMAINING CLADDING
AND WINDOW TRIM
151
Dream Dog House
STEP 6:
ROOFING
CUTLIST
Cut from ½" plywood
Cut from 2x4 stock
58 ½"
4"
GG
CC
X4
36 ½"
28 ¼"
DD
X1
Cut from 4x4 stock
X2
28"
EE
1 ½"
X2
24 ½"
/4x6 stock ripped
to 4 1/4"
5
38 ½"
HH
Cut from 2x4 stock
38 ½"
FF
74˚
74˚
21 ¼"
X1
36 ½"
X1
58 ½"
II
4 ¼"
X2
ROOFING
152
Dream Dog House
ASSEMBLY VIEW
ROOFING
TOP
(shown without roofing)
FRONT
LEFT
ROOFING
153
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 6:
ROOFING
29
30
ROOF SUPPORTS
Position part (DD) on the front wall. The
bottom edge should be 27" from the
floorboards, and it should be centered
vertically on the wall. Attach with 2" deck
screws.
Join two parts (R) together as shown
using 3" deck screws.
31
32
33
In the center of each part (R), attach part
(CC) with 3" deck screws. Then attach
this assembly to the back wall as shown.
The top edges of parts (R) should be flush
with the other roof framing you’ve already
installed.
Repeat the previous two steps for the
front wall.
Remove the second-to-last floorboard
by unscrewing its fasteners and setting
it aside. Attach part (EE) to each end of
this floorboard 2" in from the edge with 3"
wood screws.
34
35
To tie the parts (EE) together, use part
(FF). It should fit into the notches and be
attached with 3" deck screws.
Lift this assembly back into place and
reattach it with the rest of the floorboards.
ROOFING
154
Dream Dog House
BUILDING
STEP 6:
ROOFING
36
37
ROOF
Place part (GG) onto the roof supports
and attach with 2" deck screws.
Place part (II) onto the ends of the roof
supports and attach with 2" deck screws.
38
39
Repeat the previous two steps for the
other side of the roof.
Place part (HH) on top of parts (DD) and
(FF). Butt it up against the front wall, then
attach to the supports below using 2"
deck screws.
40
SHINGLES
Install roofing felt, metal drip edge, and
shingles of your choice. Follow manufacturers’
instructions for each component, and use
appropriate roofing nails.
ROOFING
155
FINAL STEPS
FINISHING
41
the wood.
CONGRATULATIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL DREAM DOG HOUSE!
FINISHING
156
PROJECT PLAN
Construct a sleek and sturdy freestanding
hammock and start extending outdoor
downtime.
The simple geometry and clean lines of
this project add aesthetic value to any
yard. The inset platform floats above the
ground and allows the ebb and flow of
wind to gently sway its occupants.
The hammock features strong joinery
utilizing 4x4 wood stock for the wall
columns, has braces at the corners for
added stability, and takes advantage of
rope connections to gracefully suspend
the bed platform.
You can customize this piece as little or as
much as you’d like – adding a simple pad
on the platform makes it ready to enjoy, or
you can dress it up with curtain rods and
fabric. Add a rug below the platform and
pillows for a comfy, home-away-from-home
appeal.
BUILD TIME
13
HRS
DIFFICULTY
COST
$ $ $ $ $
BuildYella.com
157
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
CUTLIST
A - C:
Cut from 4x4 stock
102"
A
X 22
88"
X2
B
24"
C
45°
45°
X8
72"
D - E:
Cut from 2x6 stock
D
X2
60"
E
F:
Cut from 2x4 stock
Note: The notches call
for a 7/8" x 7/8" cutout,
but measure the
thickness of your 5/4
stock and adjust the
cut so that the board
will sit flush.
X2
F
X2
5 1/4 "
G:
Cut from 2x6 stock
G
5 1/4 "
10 1/2 "
X4
70¾"
H:
Cut from 5/4 x6 stock
H
X 11
I:
Rope
I
approx. 40ft
158
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
TOOLS
WOOD STOCK
26x4x4x10'
5x
2x6x8'
Miter saw
(or hand or
circular saw)
1x2x4x12'*
6x
5/4 x6x12'
Table saw
Drill/driver
Miter square
Measuring
tape
*OR2x2x4x8’
HARDWARE
1 LB BOX
1/4" Drill
2" Wood screws (to attach decking planks)
6" Torx-head wood screws (to attach structure)
bit
~ 30 EACH
16-gauge 2" nails
Nail gun
OTHER
1x
4x
3/4 " or
1" x 40' rope
steel conduit hanger**
Socket or
crescent wrench
1/2"
Forstner bit
3/4 " or 1/2 " stainless
** use 3/4 " or 1" rope with corresponding conduit hanger to make sure rope fits very tightly
within the hanger. Select the rope and hanger whose load rating suits your needs.
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
3
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
8
HRS
FINISHING
+
2
TOTAL
=
HRS
13
HRS
159
ASSEMBLED VIEW
160
Notes:
TOP
measure your stock.
LEFT
RIGHT
~102"
~102"
~102"
BOTTOM
161
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
1: RIGHT WALL
2: LEFT WALL
3: BRACES
4: PLATFORM
5: ROPE SUSPENSION
6: FINISHING & ACCESSORIES
162
STEP 1:
RIGHT WALL
CUTLIST
4x4 STOCK
102"
31/2"
A
(12x)
88"
(2x)
B
31/2"
section.
FIRST WALL
163
ASSEMBLY VIEW
RIGHT WALL
TOP
FRONT
RIGHT
FIRST WALL
164
BUILDING
STEP 1:
RIGHT WALL
1
2
3
First, cut boards (A) and (B) using a miter
saw. To make a part with two clean faces,
cut 1" off one end, then measure and
cut to 102" at the other end. Lay out two
parallel parts (A) on the ground about
102" apart.
At one end of the parallel boards, place
part (A) on top of them, keeping the edges
flush. This will act as a cross-member.
Pre-drill first, then screw into the other (A)
boards using 6" screws.
Use a miter square to ensure angles
are at 90°. Repeat Step 1, Part 2 at the
other end. The four pieces should form a
square.
4
5
6
Next, add another part (A) next to the one
already on the ground. Use a scrap piece
of 4x4 as a spacer. Pre-drill and attach all
the parts with screws. Then repeat on the
other side.
Add four more parts (A) on top of
the assembly. These four parts are
positioned directly over the four parts (A)
on the ground. Pre-drill and attach all
the parts with screws.*
You’ll now attach vertical cross-members.
First, take two parts (A) and attach them
as shown. Pre-drill and use screws to
attach them.
7
*TIP
Alternating screw patterns is
recommended to avoid the
intersection of existing screws.
Now, attach two parts (B) at the opposite
end. These rest on the cross-members
from Step 1, Part 2. You will now have the
right wall assembled.
FIRST WALL
165
STEP 2:
LEFT WALL
CUTLIST
4x4 STOCK
102"
(10x)
31/2"
A
SECOND WALL
166
ASSEMBLY VIEW
LEFT WALL
TOP
FRONT
RIGHT
SECOND WALL
167
BUILDING
STEP 2:
LEFT WALL
8
9
10
AXIS OF
ROTATION
To create the left wall, repeat Step 1, Parts
1-5 (see pg. 122). It will be identical to the
right wall, except with no vertical beams.
Now, tip the right wall assembly 90°
toward the left wall assembly. Part (B)
should be on the ground now.
AXIS OF
ROTATION
Tip the left wall assembly 90° toward
the right wall assembly. This left wall
assembly should line up with the crossmembers. Pre-drill and use 6" screws to
attach the left wall assembly to the right
wall assembly.
SECOND WALL
168
STEP 3:
BRACES
CUTLIST
4x4 STOCK
24"
(8x)
45°
C
45°
31/2"
BRACES
169
ASSEMBLY VIEW
BRACES
TOP
FRONT
RIGHT
BRACES
170
BUILDING
STEP 3:
BRACES
11
12
13
Cut parts (C) using a miter saw. At each
corner of the structure, there will be two
braces (C).
Each brace will join the vertical posts
(A) to the horizontal cross-members (A).
Attach them using 6" screws into the 4x4
beams at an angle. Use 2 screws at each
end, for a total of 4 screws per (C) part.
There are a total of 8 braces to complete
the structure.
BRACES
171
STEP 4:
PLATFORM
CUTLIST
2x6 STOCK
72"
51/4"
D
(2x)
60"
2x4 STOCK
51/4"
57"
31/2"
F
(2x)
51/4"
2x6 STOCK
(4x)
/ " NOTCH
7 8
/"
7 8
E
(2x)
/ " NOTCH
7 8
/"
7 8
51/4"
21/2"
21/2"
G
1"
HOLE
/4 x 6 STOCK
5
70 3/4 "
(11x)
H
51/4"
PLATFORM
172
ASSEMBLY VIEW
PLATFORM
TOP
FRONT
LEFT
BOTTOM
PLATFORM
173
BUILDING
STEP 4:
PLATFORM
14
15
16
Cross-cut boards (D), (E) to the proper
dimensions, noting their 45º angle on
each end. They require a recessed lip
along their lengths. Using a table saw,
cut a 7/8 " x 7/8 " notch into the inside edge
along the top.
Use a nail gun and tack parts (D) and (E)
together, and then attach with 2" screws.
Then, cut parts (G) and drill a 1" hole in
each part. Attach to the bottom of the
platform using 2" screws.
17
18
To complete the frame for the platform,
evenly space the two parts (F) to the two
parts (E) and attach, ensuring the tops of
(F) are flush with the bottom of the notch.
Pre-drill and use 2" screws to hold them
together.
Next, attach the eleven boards (H).
They rest in the shelf you made in parts
(D) and (E). At both ends of the board,
screw into parts (D). Also screw into
supports (F).
TOP VIEW
PLATFORM
174
STEP 5:
SUSPENSION ROPES
CUTLIST
ROPE
(APPROX. 10' PER SECTION)
~ 480"
SUSPENSION ROPES
175
ASSEMBLY VIEW
SUSPENSION ROPES
TOP
FRONT
LEFT
BOTTOM
SUSPENSION ROPES
176
BUILDING
STEP 5:
SUSPENSION ROPES
19
20
At each corner of the platform, mark the
center of a circle at 2 1/2 " x 2 1/2 " from the
corner, and drill holes using a 1" Forstner
bit. These holes will align with the holes
you drilled in parts (G) to accommodate
the rope.
21
Take a scrap piece of sandpaper and
smooth the edges of all holes to prevent
the rope from fraying.
To suspend the platform from the
structure, you’ll need a 10' section of rope
at each corner. Tie a stopper knot in one
end (see diagram), then thread it through
the holes in the platform from the bottom.
Do this for all corners.
22
23
24
(Close-up of how to tie a stopper knot.)
Take the other end of the rope and wrap
it around the horizontal supports (A) three
times.
Using your conduit hanger, secure the
end of the rope to the horizontal support
(A). Attach hanger first with a screw, and
then pull rope through. Repeat this step
for the other corners.
25
Place a level on the platform and fine-tune
level in all directions. Once it is, tighten
the nut on the hanger the rest of the way.
SUSPENSION ROPES
177
26
27
the wood.
Place the mattress pad of your choice
onto the platform and decorate with
pillows, blankets, and even curtains if
you wish. (You can spray fabrics with
Scotchgard to add a layer of protection
from outdoor elements.)
CONGRATULATIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW FREE STANDING HAMMOCK!
178
Garden Bench
This sturdy garden bench is so simple to build
you can have it completed in less than a day –
including sanding and finishing. Made entirely from
dimensional lumber and with only simple cuts
and butt joints, you can build it on Saturday and be
enjoying it Sunday morning.
The most complicated aspect of this bench is laying
out and cutting the arms – and even that is a simple,
straightforward task. Here we cut and sanded a
round arm profile, but feel free to play with the
design and use a couple of 45-degree cuts to
“round” the front of the arms… or whatever suits
your tastes.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 1 hour
179
Garden Bench
A
TOOLS
X4
Miter saw (or circular or hand saw)
Jigsaw
Drill/driver
18
" drill bit
Clamps (2)
X2
(6) 1 x 6 x 8'
(5) 2 x 4 x 8'
(1) 2 x 6 x 8'
2" deck screws
2 ½" deck screws
3" deck screws
D
X2
E
CUT LIST
(4)
(2)
(2)
(2)
(4)
(3)
(3)
(3)
X2
C
SUPPLIES
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
B
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 23 ½"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 23"
¾ x 5 ½ x 25"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 54"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 20"
¾ x 5 ½ x 54"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 21 ⅜"
¾ x 5 ½ x 51"
X4
F
X3
G
X3
H
X3
180
Garden Bench
G
H
C
B
D
H
E
H
F
F
A
D
F
C
E
A
Back support detail
1½"
3¼"
90
A
Arm detail
¾"
o
6"
15"
bevel cut to match seat
back
21 3 8 "
14"
4½"
r= 2¾"
5½"
181
Garden Bench
Front view & dimensions
60 ½"
51"
24¼"
16"
57"
182
Garden Bench
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut the seat frame components (D and E)
according to the dimensions on the cut list.
02 Arrange these pieces on your assembly table,
keeping the outside of the frame ends flush with
the ends of the front and back frame. Drill pilot
holes and attach with 3" deck screws. You may
find it helpful to clamp these pieces together as
you attach them.
03 Measure and mark the center of the seat
frame front and back and place the two middle
stretchers so that the mark is centered within
a 1 ½" gap between stretchers. This is where
the middle back support will be sandwiched, so
you may want to place a piece of scrap 2x stock
centered on your center mark as you attach the
stretchers with 3" deck screws.
04 Cut three seat slats (F) and place them on your
seat frame assembly. Place the rear slat first,
starting it 7" from the back of the seat frame.
Place ¼" spacers between the slats, which
should leave the front slat overhanging the front
of the seat frame by about 1". Drill pilot holes
and attach the slats with glue and 2" screws.
05 Lay out and cut three back supports (G)
according to the detail drawing on the
illustration. Make your cuts with a jigsaw or
circular saw and use a straightedge guide
if needed.
183
Garden Bench
BUILDING STEPS
06 Cut the three back slats (H) to length. Place
your back supports on their back edges on your
assembly table and place one slat so the top
edge is flush with the top of the supports. The
ends of the slat should be flush with the outside
edges of your supports. Measure and mark
the center of your slat and center the middle
support there, again keeping the top edges
flush. Attach with glue and 2" screws. Repeat
with the remaining two back slats, keeping ¼"
spacing between all slats.
TIP: If you like, rout a 1 8 " or ¼" roundover
edge on the front seat slat and the top back slat
before proceeding to the next step.
07 Slide the back supports into place inside the
seat frame assembly, sandwiching the middle
support between the two middle stretchers.
Attach with 3" screws through the frame ends
and stretchers and into the back supports.
08 Cut the four legs (A) and two arm supports (B)
according to the dimensions on the cut list.
184
Garden Bench
BUILDING STEPS
09 Lay an arm support on a pair of legs, keeping
the tops and outside edges flush and attach
with glue and 2 ½" screws. Repeat for other leg
assembly.
10 Clamp the leg assemblies to the seat frame,
keeping the arm supports facing inward, outer
edges of the legs flush with the front and back
of the seat frame, and the top of the seat slats
16" up from the bottom of the legs. Fasten with
glue and 2 ½" screws.
11 Cut two arms (C) according to the length on the
cut list. Refer to detail drawing to lay out the
shape and cut with jigsaw.
12 Place the arms on top of the arm supports,
keeping the back of the arms flush with the
back edges of the back legs. The notch should
fit snugly against the seat back and the front of
the arm should overhang the front of the arm
support by about ¾". Fasten with glue and
2" screws.
13 Sand all surfaces and break all edges with
sandpaper and apply a weatherproof finish.
185
Hose Holder
This sturdy garden hose holder is both functional
and flexible. You can stow up to 100 feet of hose on
the main body, and extra nozzles, sprinkler heads or
other accessories on the two handy shelves.
The flexibility comes from the ability to set the post
on a metal holder (allowing you to store it inside
during winter) or set the post in concrete. You may
also forego the post altogether and mount the holder directly to your house, shed or fence —
wherever is most handy for you.
The plan is easily customizable, as you can play with
the design and go for a more rounded appearance,
rather than the blend of 45 and 22 ½ degree cuts
shown here. You could also drill a hole through the
post and feed your hose through that, concealing
the connection to your home’s hose bib.
BUILD TIME
Finishing: 1 hour
Total: 5 – 6 hours (depending on glue set-up time)
186
Hose Holder
TOOLS
A
X1
Miter saw
Table saw
Drill/driver
Router with ¼" chamfer or roundover bit
24" bar clamps
TIP: To cut the dadoes, a dado blade setup on
your table saw is easiest. If you do not have
one, you can set your miter saw blade to a
depth of ¾" and make several passes within
your layout marks, then clean out the waste
with a sharp chisel.
B
X2
C
X4
D
SUPPLIES
(1) 4 x 4 x 4' post*
(2) 1 x 6 x 10'
Scrap piece of 1 x 8 at least 15" long
1 ¼", 2", and 3" deck screws
Post anchor
Waterproof glue
Cement mix
*If setting post into the ground or concrete, cut post
to at least 60" to leave at least 48" above ground.
X4
E
X 23
F
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
(1)
(2)
(4)
(4)
(23)
(2)
3 ½ x 3 ½ x 48"
¾ x 5 ½ x 18"
¾ x 5 ½ x 17"
¾ x 5 ½ x 14"
¾ x 1 ¼ x 9 ½"
¾ x 7 x 7"
X2
187
Hose Holder
EXPLODED VIEW
25˚ chamfers
¼" chamfer around all edges of
both (C/B/C) assemblies
F
(2)
Dadoes ¾"
wide and deep
C
C B
E
D
A
D
C
B
C
(1)
(1)
F
E
Attach slats (E) on bottom of both sides first,
then attach top middle, then fill in the rest in
sequence with ¼" spacing and 2" screws
Attach (F) on both sides with
glue and 2" screws angled
through shelf and into
post from underneath
188
Hose Holder
ADDITIONAL VIEW
Inside support (D) detail
1"
25˚ chamfers
r = 4 1/2"
x
x
4"
6"
B
x
X
X
x
D
14"
9½"
F
X
X
x
¼" spacing
between slats
26"
x
x
x
9"
Seam from edge gluing two 1x6 boards,
centered in finished piece (D)
X= 3" screws for mounting to post
E
= 1¼" screws for mounting to panels (B) & (C)
X
F
48"
Dadoes- ¾" wide and deep
A
Center and side panels detail
22½˚ angles {measured from top of {B}}
45˚ angles measured
from top of (B), intersecting
first angled cut at
noted measurement
2¾"
2½"
2½"
¼" spacing
C
B
C
5½"
5½"
18"
45˚ angles measured
from bottom of (C)
2¾"
5½"
189
Hose Holder
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut inner supports (D) according to dimensions
on cut list. Edge glue and clamp them in pairs
and let the glue set fully.
02 On your miter saw, cut 45° chamfers on the top
of your post (A) and cut two ¾" dadoes to a
depth of ¾". See illustration for layout.
03 Cut the center (B) and side (C) panels, place
them together to simulate two assemblies and
lay out the angle cuts according to the illustration. Make the cuts by setting your miter saw to
22 ½° and 45° accordingly. Rout your chamfers
or roundovers on all edges, inside and out.
04 Once the glue has set on your inner support
assemblies, rip them to 9" wide. Trim an equal
amount from both sides, leaving the glue seam
in the center of the panels. This will make
centering the supports on the center panels and
post much easier. Mark the radius according
to the dimensions on the illustration, cut and
sand smooth.
05 Cut several ¼"-thick spacer blocks from scrap
¾" stock.
190
Hose Holder
BUILDING STEPS
06 Drill pilot holes on inner support assemblies (D),
noting locations on illustration. Attach one set of
inner support and side panels with ¼" spacing
to one center assembly with glue and 1 ¼"
screws. Repeat for the other (B/C/D) assembly.
07 Attach one finished (B/C/D) assembly to post
with glue and 3" screws, with top of (B)
centered 4" from top of post.
08 Cut slats (E) and drill pilot holes 3 8 " in from
edge and centered along width.
09 Attach slats to back panel (D). Start with the
bottom slats on both sides, then the top slat,
and then fill in the rest of the slats with ¼"
spacing. Drill pilot holes into edge of (D) to
avoid splitting. This will leave an approximate
¼" space at the face of the slats (E) and a
narrower space along the backside where they
attach to part (D).
10 Using the same techniques and order (two bottom pieces, then top, then the rest), attach the
slats to the front (B/C/D) assembly.
191
Hose Holder
BUILDING STEPS
11 Cut the two shelves (F) to size from your
scrap 1 x 8.
12 Glue and screw the shelves into their matching
dadoes on the post. Drive screws at an angle
from underneath the shelves so they are hidden.
13 Apply a waterproof finish and when dry, mount
your post into a post holder, concrete or
wherever/however you wish to mount it. Also
consider purchasing a decorative post cap as an
alternative to chamefering the top of the 4x4.
192
Hummingbird Feeder
Attract hummingbirds to your yard and watch them
hover in mid-air as they sip from this clever little
feeder. Hang it near flowering plants and shrubs and
watch them supplement that nectar with the sugary
mixture in a feeder you made yourself.
Easily made, this feeder features a small plastic
bottle feeder and two narrow slots that allow you to
see when your mixture has run out or needs to be
changed. The enclosed body of the feeder also protects the mixture from the sun’s rays, which experts
say will quickly spoil the feeding solution.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts: 1 hour
Assembly: 1 – 2 hours (maybe longer,
depending on glue set time)
Finishing: 1 hour
Total: 3 hours
Due to the small nature of these parts, it
is highly recommended you DO NOT try to use
a circular saw to cut these parts. Use extreme
caution when using power tools to fabricate
these small pieces.
193
Hummingbird Feeder
TOOLS
A
Table saw
Miter saw (or hand saw)
Jig saw
Brad nailer
Drill/Driver
38
" Dia. drill bit at least 3" long
Router and ¼" chamfer bit (optional)
X4
B
X4
C
SUPPLIES
One piece of lumber measuring 1 x 6 x 4'
¼" dowel
¾" galvanized brads
1" galvanized brads
#10 galvanized or stainless steel ¼" screw eye
8 oz. capacity water bottle (no more than 1 ¾" in
diameter and 6 ¼" long – not counting feeding tube)
Waterproof glue
Fishing line
X1
D
X1
CUT LIST
A(4)3 /8 x 2 ½ x 7"
B
(4)
½ x ½ x 5 ½"
3/
C(1)
8 x 3 x 3"
D
(1)
¾ x 5 x 5"
E
(1)
¾ x 3 x 3"
F
(1)
¾ 2 x 2"
G
(1)
¼ x 5"
E
X1
F
X1
G
X1
194
Hummingbird Feeder
¼" Screw eye
¼" chamfers
D
F
B
A
A
¼"
2"
A
1¼"
G
1"
A
" pilot holes
for finishline
1 16
C
195
Hummingbird Feeder
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut a 15" piece of 1 x 6 and rip it into two pieces
2 ½" wide. Then, set your saw’s fence so that
the blade is centered in the thickness of your ¾"
stock and resaw those two pieces in half, so you
end up with four pieces approximately 3 /8" thick
by 2 ½" wide by 7" long. From those pieces, cut
the four walls (A) and the bottom piece (C).
02 Stack two of the wall pieces together and drill
two 3 8 " holes, one about ¾" from the bottom
and the other about 2" from the top, along
the centerline. Draw pencil lines between the
outside edges of those two holes on both
pieces, and cut that 3 /8"-wide slot with a jig saw
equipped with a thin, fine-toothed blade. These
are the slots that allow you to see how much
feeding solution is in the bottle.
03 From the remaining stock of your lumber, cut
the top (D) and cap (E) to the dimensions on the
cut list. Use your router and ¼" chamfer bit to
cut a chamfer around the perimeter of
both pieces.
04 From the smaller piece of lumber, cut the
corners (B). Set your table saw’s blade to 45°
and carefully rip four pieces no wider than ½".
Crosscut to 5 ½" long.
05 Center and drill a hole at least 1 8 " larger than the
cap in the bottom piece (C).
196
Hummingbird Feeder
BUILDING STEPS
06 Glue the corner pieces (B) to the wall sections
(A), noting how the wall edges lap in the illustration. Keep the corner pieces flush with the
bottom of your wall sections.
07 Once your glue has set, fit the wall sections
together and drive ¾" brads through the walls
and into the corner pieces. You may want to use
masking tape or rubber bands to keep the
sections together as you do this.
08 Place the bottom piece (C) on the bottom of the
box and attach with glue and ¾" brads, driving
the brads into the corner pieces.
09 Center the cap (E) on the top of the roof (D) and
attach with glue and 1" brads. Center the lock
block (F) on the bottom of this assembly and
attach in the same manner.
10 Mark the center point for the ¼" dowel key on
the feeder wall as noted on the illustration.
Insert the roof assembly and drill a 9 /32" hole
through one wall, the lock block and out through
the other wall. Be careful to keep your drill
perpendicular so the two holes on the feeder
walls line up properly.
197
Hummingbird Feeder
BUILDING STEPS
11 Cut the dowel to proper length and drill a 1/16"
hole through one end. Attach an approximate
12" length of fishing line to the dowel and the
other end to the eye hook. This will keep the
dowel key from becoming lost.
12 Drill a 1 8 " hole about ½" deep in the center of
your roof cap and screw in the eye hook.
13 Fill your bottle with a feeding mixture, place
the feeder over the top and screw the feeding
tube in place through the hole in the feeder
bottom. Invert, place the roof on top and insert
dowel key.
14 Apply a waterproofing finish according to
manufacturer recommendations. Hang in place
and enjoy your bird watching.
TIP: You can purchase ready-made
hummingbird food mixtures or you can make
your own by boiling water and adding white
sugar in a 4:1 ratio (water to sugar). Add food
coloring if you wish to make the mixture more
visible through the slots in the
feeder walls.
198
Multi-Purpose Stand
This easy-to-build stand can perform many duties
around your yard. With a plastic or terra cotta plant
saucer placed on top, it can be used as a bird bath
or even a Zen sand garden. While tall plants such as
ferns or small palm trees would be too top-heavy for
this stand, cascading plants such as geraniums, spider
plants or certain types of ivies are perfectly suited for it.
BUILD TIME
199
Multi-Purpose Stand
TOOLS
A
Circular saw or miter saw
Jig saw
Drill/driver
¼" and 1 8 " drill bits
1 ½" and ¾" forstner or spade bit
Socket set
Clamps
X3
B
X3
SUPPLIES
(2) 2 x 4 x 8'
" Hardboard scrap at least 2 ½" wide by 18" long
(6) ¼ x 4 ½" galvanized lag bolts and washers
3" deck screws
Weatherproof glue
18
C
X3
D
CUT LIST
X3
A
(3)
1 ½ x 3 x 11"
B
(3)
1 ½ x 3 x 18"
C
(3)
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 18"
D
(3)
1 ½ x 3 x 10”
18
E(3)
x ¾ x 18" (1 8 " hardboard)
E
X3
200
Multi-Purpose Stand
16" dia. flower
pot saucer
D
D
D
C
B
C
B
C
B
A
E
A
A
201
Multi-Purpose Stand
Center upright assembly
(top view)
Bowl support assembly
(top view)
B
D
B
E
D
B
Cut and sand
profile diameter
slightly larger than
bottom diameter
of saucer
D
3"
30°
Center upright (end view)
B
Bowl support detail
3"
1
½"
/8"
¼"
Cut and sand profile to fit saucer bottom
profile, diameter and depth
3"
D
1½" radius
C
B
Foot detail
2½"
1½" radius
A
3"
2¾"
11"
202
Multi-Purpose Stand
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut all parts to length first, according to
dimensions on cut list. Then cut 30° bevels on
both sides of one end of each foot (A) and bowl
support (D) and bevel-rip each center upright
(B) along both sides of one edge. To make these
bevel cuts, tilt your table saw’s blade to 30° and
position the fence so the bevels meet in the
middle of the stock. To make the spline slots in
the center uprights (B), flip the uprights so the
bevel point is on the table and one face is tight
against the fence. Make sure the blade will cut
at least ¼" to accommodate the splines (E).
Once all bevel cuts are made, rip parts A, B and
D to 3" wide and parts C to 1 ½" square.
02 Dry assemble the center uprights (B) and
splines (E) to make sure everything fits flush
and tight, then disassemble and apply glue
to slots. Place one spline in one bevel of each
upright, then bring the parts together starting
at the bottom and pushing the joint together all
the way up. Clamp the assembly together until
dry – strap clamps work best for this step, but
you can rig standard grip clamps to perform the
same function.
03 Use your 1 ½" and ¾" forstner or spade bits
to cut the concaves in the feet (A) and bowl
supports (D) as shown in detail drawings.
Clamp scrap pieces of lumber to the edges of
parts where drilling, as the center points of
some of these holes fall on the edges of the
pieces. For the bottom concave of the feet (A)
draw a straight line from the top of the ¾" hole
to the beveled edge and cut with a jig saw. For
the bowl support (D) profile, measure whatever
bowl you choose and match the profile as
closely as possible by drilling holes, cutting
straight lines and sanding where necessary –
using the same principles and steps as above.
On the underside of the feet (A), mark 1 ½" back
from the bevel point and drill a ¾" countersink
about ½" deep, then clamp to center upright
assembly and drill a ¼" pilot hole through the
center of your countersink and into the
center uprights (B).
203
Multi-Purpose Stand
BUILDING STEPS
04 Attach center upright assembly to the feet (A)
with glue, lag bolts and washers.
05 Clamp thin uprights (C) in place, with a 2 ½"
space between them and the center uprights,
and repeat drilling procedure and attach with
glue, lag bolts and washers.
06 Clamp bowl supports (D) in place, lining up their
bevel points with the bevel points of the center
upright assembly. Drill 8 " pilot holes through
the top of bowl supports and into the center of
thin uprights. Remove clamps, apply glue to the
tops of the thin uprights and attach with 3"
deck screws.
07 Break all edges and sand all surfaces smooth
and apply weatherproofing finish of your choice.
Place bowl in supports (you may want to secure
it with some dabs of silicone adhesive along
bowl supports) and you can now find a myriad
of uses for your new stand!
204
Picnic Table
This plan makes a table that features separate
benches for unencumbered leg room and ample
seating for six to eight adults. The half-lap joints
on the legs are easy to create and add a touch of
elegance. An easy weekend project, this set will
soon become the central gathering point for your
backyard.
This plan calls for a table six feet wide, but you can
play with the dimensions until you come up with the
length and depth you want. Keep the leg lengths the
same, but be aware that a table much bigger than
this may require use of 2 x 6 legs, and longer
benches may require more support – perhaps just
another set of legs, braces and cleats in the middle.
BUILD TIME
*Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws.
205
Picnic Table
TABLE
A
DIMENSIONS
30" h x 72" l x 34 ¼" w
X6
TOOLS
Drill/driver
38
drill bit at least 5" long
1" dia. spade or Forstner bit
#8 countersink bit (or size appropriate
for the screws you are using)
Socket wrench
Combination square
Wood chisel
B
X2
C
X4
SUPPLIES
(3) 2 x 6 x 12'
(3) 2 x 4 x 8'
(4) ¼" x 3 ½" galvanized carriage bolts
(6) ¼" galvanized cut washers and nuts
3" deck screws
4" deck screws
D
X2
TABLE CUT LIST
Part Qty.
Size
A Top Slats
B Cleats
C Legs
D Braces
6
2
4
2
2 x 6 x 72"
2 x 4 x 33"
2 x 4 x 36"
2 x 4 x 24"
206
Picnic Table
BENCHES (2)
A
DIMENSIONS
18" h x 72" l x 11 ¼" w
X4
TOOLS
Drill/driver
38
drill bit at least 5" long
1" dia. spade or Forstner bit
#8 countersink bit (or size appropriate
for the screws you are using)
Socket wrench
Combination square
Wood chisel
B
X4
C
X8
SUPPLIES (FOR 2 BENCHES)
(2) 2 x 6 x 12'
(3) 2 x 4 x 8'
(12) ¼" galvanized cut washers and nuts
3" deck screws
4" deck screws
D
X4
BENCH CUT LIST
Part Qty.
Size
A Top Slats
B Cleats
C Legs
D Braces
4
4
8
4
2 x 6 x 72"
2 x 4 x 11 ½"
2 x 4 x 18 ¼"
2 x 4 x 15 ½"
207
Picnic Table
EXPLODED VIEW
Table exploded view
A
A
A
A
A
A
o
45 cut 1" from
outside edge
B
" spacing between
slats
1/
4
38 o
C
D
C
45 o cuts
D
38 o
B
28"
C
C
38 o angle cuts
38 o angle cuts
Benches exploded view
A
A
B
24o
¼" spacing between
slats
o
24
C
C
D
16 1/2"
24o angle cuts
208
Picnic Table
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut all pieces to dimension according to cut
lists. For all top slats (A), simply cut two 6-foot
lengths from each 12-foot piece of 2 x 6. You’ll
want to square both mill-cut ends by trimming
¼" or less from each end before making your
measurements and cutting them in half (you
should have enough to end up with two 6-foot
lengths). On the cleats (B), trim the bottom
outside corners off with a simple 45° cut 1" in
from the outside edges. For the legs (C), note
that lengths are measured from the long points
to the short points of the cuts. For the braces
(D), lengths are measured from the long points
of the opposite 45° angles.
*See illustration for more detail. *Note: The steps for building the table and
benches are exactly the same. The following
instructions are for both assemblies, with
differences in measurements noted.
02 The following assembly steps are identical
for both benches and the table. Place legs (C)
on an assembly table with their “feet” braced
against a square surface (temporary stop block,
for instance) and their centers roughly one on
top of the other. Spread the legs until you get a
measurement of 16 ½" from the top to bottom
for the bench legs (28" for the table) and trace
on both legs where they intersect.
03 Set your circular saw or miter saw to a depth
of ¾" and make several passes between your
tracing of the leg intersection and carefully
clean out the waste with a sharp chisel to create
the half-lap joints. Dry fit and re-measure to
make sure everything fits snugly and the “feet”
remain square and the correct distance from
the tops.
04 Place your slats (A) face-side down on your
assembly table and insert ¼" spacers between
them. Make sure the ends are flush and clamp
the slats together. Place cleats (B) 8" in from slat
ends and mark locations for pilot holes where
the screws will catch the meat of your slats.
Drill pilot holes and countersinks and connect
with glue and 4" deck screws.
209
Picnic Table
BUILDING STEPS
05 Center your dry-fit leg assembly on the cleat
and drill 3 8 " pilot holes through both and attach
with 3 ½" carriage bolts.
06 Fit the brace (D) between the leg assembly
and slat bottoms, making sure the legs remain
square to the slats. Toe-screw the brace to the
underside of the slats and drill a 3 8 " pilot hole
through the brace where the legs intersect,
countersinking the pilot hole on the brace to
provide a flat surface for the washer and nut of
your 4 ½" carriage bolt.
07 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth, finish with
a waterproofing finish of your choice, place in
your favorite picnic spot in your yard and gather
friends and family!
210
Planter Box
This planter box is simple and fun to build. Featuring
simple joinery reinforced with waterproof glue,
exterior grade screws and galvanized finish nails,
this planter can be built in a few hours and will
provide years of attractive use. The plan can easily
be modified and you can build a bigger box to house
several plants or customize it to fit a specific space
in which you want to place it.
It can be located anywhere on your deck or in your
yard, and is the perfect size for growing a single
tomato plant or a few small patches of herbs. You
can even bring it indoors during colder months and
enjoy fresh-grown herbs or vegetables year round.
One tip if you do decide to bring it indoors – place it
on a plastic tray or boot mat to catch any water that
may drip down through the weep holes, which are
necessary to drain standing water from any planter.
The simplicity of this plan means you can build a
set of two, three or more planter boxes in a day or
weekend. You can use them as enclosures for potted
plants or grow any other type of flower, vegetable,
fruit or herb you like. You can have a suite of planters
your family will enjoy season after season.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts: Assembly: Total: 1 – 2 hours
1 – 3 hours
2 – 5 hours
211
Planter Box
A
TOOLS
Miter saw (or circular saw)
Table saw
Jig saw (or hand saw)
Drill/driver
Hammer
Nail set
x 4
B
SUPPLIES
One Lb. 1 ½" exterior-grade wood screws
Waterproof exterior wood glue
1 ½" galvanized finish nails
(2) 1 x 4 x 12'
(1) 2 x 4 x 8' (to be ripped in half for legs)
(3) 1 x 8 x 8'
x 4
C
x 4
D
x 2
E
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
(4)
(4)
(4)
(2)
(3)
(8)
(2)
(2)
1 x 8 x 18"
1 x 8 x 22 ½"
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 24"
1 x 2 x 18"
1 x 8 x 18" (2 notched, 1 ripped)
1 x 4 x 15 ½"
1 x 4 x 25 ½"
1 x 4 x 19 ½"
x 4
F
x 3
G
x 2
Due to natural variances in lumber
dimensions, measure and cut parts (G) and (H)
after assembly of the rest of the box. This will
ensure a flush fit and neater appearance.
H
x 2
212
Planter Box
EXPLODED VIEW
H
G
H
G
F
F
F
F
A
C
C
B
A
B
C
E
E
B
F
C
D
A
D
B
F
F
F
A
38
3/8”
" dia. drainage holes
213
Planter Box
BUILDING STEPS
TIP: Keep a damp rag handy to clean up any
glue drips and runs as you work.
01 Cut the sides (A and B), legs (C), cleats (D) and
corner trim (F) according to the dimensions on
the cut list.
02 Cut 2 x 4 to about 50", rip in half on table saw,
then cut to length for legs.
03 Cut the bottom pieces (E) and set aside for more
cuts after assembly of the box.
04 Attach the shorter side pieces (A) to the legs
with glue and screws, keeping edges flush.
05 Glue and screw cleats (D) to the inside of each
side panel, keeping the bottom of the cleat
roughly even with the bottom edge of the side
panel.
06 Attach longer side pieces (B) to each panel,
keeping all ends flush.
TIP: Always drill pilot holes when driving
screws to avoid splitting the wood.
TIP: Small gaps (about 3 8 " or less) are acceptable for the bottom assembly, as drainage is
required anyway.
214
Planter Box
BUILDING STEPS
TIP: It is not necessary to attach the bottom
boards to the cleats, but you may do so if you
choose.
07 Place 2 of the bottom pieces (E) inside the box
on top of the cleats and mark where to notch for
the legs. Remove the pieces and cut the notches
with a hand saw or jig saw. Put them back in
place inside the box.
08 Attach corner trim pieces with glue and finish nails,
keeping the tops flush with the box assembly.
09 Measure the distance between the 2 bottom
pieces, rip the third piece to that width, and put
it in place. Drill ¼” - ½” diameter drainage holes
in each board (about 3 per board).
10 Measure from outside corner to outside corner
along the top of the box to get your length for
top trim pieces (long point to long point of your
miter cuts). Attach with glue and finish nails.
11 Break all edges with sandpaper and make sure
all nail heads are set.
TIP:
You may want to place a piece of landscape fabric in the bottom of your planter, but it
is not necessary.
215
Playset
PROJECT PLAN
Build a durable and fun playset for your
children’s backyard adventures.
This playset calls for a slide and 2
swings and features a sturdy frame,
2 ladders, and a crow’s nest peer-out
point with a raised platform.
It is an outdoor fixture that will last and
have the whole family spending more
time outside.
assembling the main skeleton. After that
is raised, you will attach floor joists and
install decking and outside walls.
Make sure to take proper safety
precautions including always wearing
gloves, goggles and a dust mask when
you’re cutting or sanding.
BUILD TIME
18
HRS
DIFFICULTY
You’ll start with the construction of the
A-frame supports, then move on to
BuildYella.com
216
Playset
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
A
A
A
A
4x4x10' (8)
A
A
A
A
G
G
G
G
2x4x10' (2)
M
B
B
B
M
B
B
B
H
2x4x8' (1)
H
2x4x8' (1)
R
R
C
2x4x10' (2)
/4x6x10' (1)
5
I
C
P
E
/4x6x10' (1)
5
D
/4x6x10' (1)
5
E
J
F
/4x6x10' (1)
5
F
/4x6x10' (1)
5
L
O
C
/4x6x10' (1)
5
N
D
Q
A-FRAMES
/4x6x10' (1)
5
K
4x4x10' (1)
T
4x4x10' (1)
S
MAIN BEAMS
U
U
4x4x8' (1)
/4x6x10' (1)
5
V
W
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
2x4x8' (1)
LADDERS
/4x6x10' (6)
5
X
217
Playset
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
Y
Y
Y
Y
2x4x8' (2)
FLOOR JOISTS
Z
2x4x8' (1)
Z
AA
1x4x8' (1)
AA
CROW'S NEST JOISTS
CC
DD
CC
BB
BB
II
EE
EE
II
EE
EE
2x4x10' (1)
/4x6x10' (2)
5
KK
JJ
KK
JJ
FF
LL
LL
GG
HH
GG
HH
HH
HH
2x4x8' (2)
CROW'S NEST CLADDING
1x4x8' (2)
MM
MM
MM
/4x6x8' (7)
5
MM
MM
MM
MM
DECKING
NN
/4x6x8' (3)
5
OO
QQ
OO
*cut to 4 ½" width
OO
PP
PP
PP
PP
RR
RR
RR
RR
RR
RR
SS
SS
SS
SS
/4x6x8' (2)
5
*cut to 4" width
1x4x8' (3)
REAR CLADDING
/4x6x8' (3)
5
SS
218
Playset
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
SUPPLIES
TOOLS
WOOD STOCK TOTAL
6x1x4x8'
8x2x4x8'
5x2x4x10'
Miter saw
(or hand or
circular saw)
Table saw
Handsaw
/8" Countersink
drill bit
½" Forstner bit
Clamps
Carpenter’s
square
Mallet
Measuring tape
Circular saw
1x4x4x8'
10x4x4x10'
15x
16x
5/4x6x8'
5/4x6x10'
HARDWARE
1 LB BOX
Drill/driver
2 ½" Star-drive decking screws
3 ½" Star-drive decking screws
1 5/8" Star-drive decking screws
1
10x
6" FastenMaster TimberLOK
16x
4" FastenMaster TimberLOK
8x
2x4 joist hangers
BUILD TIME
CUTTING
4
HRS
ASSEMBLY
+
12
HRS
FINISHING
+
2
HRS
TOTAL
=
18
HRS
219
Playset
Notes:
measure your stock.
TOP
~210"
FRONT
RIGHT SIDE
~95"
~94"
~142"
220
Playset
OVERVIEW OF STEPS
1: A-FRAME SUPPORTS
6: CROW’S NEST CLADDING
2: MAIN BEAM
7: DECKING
3: LADDERS
8: REAR CLADDING
4: FLOOR JOISTS
9: FINISHING
5: CROW’S NEST JOISTS
10: ACCESSORIES
221
Playset
JIGS
CUTLIST & DIAGRAMS FOR
JIGS USED
A-FRAME
MARKING JIG
18 3/8" (scrap 2x4)
14 ¼"
90˚
24.6˚
10 ¾"
15 7/8"
A-FRAME
TOP BEAM SPACER JIG
12" long (scrap 2x4)
6" tall
(scrap 4x4)
A-FRAME
SIDE CLADDING SPACER JIG
50" long (scrap 5 /4x6 cut down to 3 ¾")
3 ¾"
Note: Why are these jigs necessary? To provide accuracy and consistency between parts and make cutting and assembly easier. Using jigs will
result in a playset that is safer, stronger, and better looking. Watch the video to see how to make these jigs.
222
Playset
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
CUTLIST FOR
A-FRAMES:
102 ¾"
3 ½"
1 ¾"
A
99 /8"
3
4 5/8"
10 /16"
3
46 /8"
1
H
B
13 3/8"
47 ¾"
49 ½"
17"
36 3/8"
C
I
N
22 1/8"
52"
33 7/8"
53 5/8"
25 ¼"
32 1/4"
D
J
O
30 3/8"
56 3/16"
29 3/4"
57 3/4"
33 ½"
28 1/8"
E
K
P
38 5/8"
60 3/8"
25 9/16"
41 ¾"
61 7/8"
24"
F
L
Q
46 7/8"
64 1/2"
21 ½"
50"
66"
G
M
53 ¼"
67 5/8"
46 ½"
3 ½"
R
3 ½"
3 ½"
½"
½"
R (side view)
A-FRAME
223
Playset
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
SIDE ASSEMBLY VIEW
A-FRAMES
B
B
B
H
H
C
D
N
I
O
J
R
G
A
B
B
C
C
D
R
E
P
K
E
F
Q
L
F
G
B
M
A
G
M
G
A
A
A-FRAME
224
Playset
1ST SECTION:
THE TWO OUTSIDE
SUPPORTS
ASSEMBLY VIEW
OUTSIDE SUPPORTS
Make this assembly twice.
Outside supports are identical.
B
B
C
C
D
D
E
E
F
F
G
G
A
A
A
FRONT
A
BACK
(2x)
A-FRAME
225
Playset
2ND SECTION:
INSIDE LEFT SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY VIEW
INSIDE LEFT SUPPORT
H
B
H
N
N
O
O
R
R
P
P
Q
G
Q
M
M
A
A
A
A
FRONT
BACK
(1x)
A-FRAME
226
Playset
3RD SECTION:
INSIDE RIGHT SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY VIEW
INSIDE RIGHT SUPPORT
H
H
B
I
I
C
J
J
R
R
K
K
L
L
M
M
G
A
A
A
FRONT
A
BACK
(1x)
A-FRAME
227
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
A: Prep: Making Jigs and 4x4 Angle Cuts
A1
A2
A3
We’ll begin by making three jigs. See page
179 for the measurements. The first one
you’ll make is a Marking Jig for the tops of
the 4x4 beams.
The second jig is the Top Beam Spacer,
used to align the top of the 4x4 beams
during assembly of the A-frames. See
dimensions on page 179 and make
accordingly.
The third jig is a Spacer Jig that will be
used for spacing the A-Frame side planks
and ladder cladding. See dimensions on
page 179 and make accordingly.
A4
A5
A6
For the Marking Jig, take a 4x4 part (A)
and measure 102 ¾" on each post. Use
the Marking Jig to inscribe the cut lines.
Then flip part (A) over and mark the other
side too.
You’ll need to do this to all 8 posts,
marking both sides with cut lines. Next,
cut on the inscribed lines using a circular
saw to half depth. Flip the wood and cut
through the remainder.
If desired, use a belt sander on the cut
surfaces to smooth out the faces.
pre-cut all of the pieces listed in
the Cutlist for each section.
A-FRAME
228
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
B: Assembling A-Frame Supports
B1
B2
B3
All four A-frames share the same basic
structure, so you’ll repeat steps B1 - B6
four times. Use the Top Beam Spacer Jig
and lay out two of the 4x4 posts into the
A-frame position.
Measure 51 ¼" from the bottom outside
corner and mark this on the post. Do this
on both posts.
Align the top of part (G) to the two points
you just marked. This will set the angle
of the A-frame. Be sure the Top Beam
Spacer is still in place.
B4
B5
B6
Countersink part (G) with a half-inch
Forstner bit.
Make sure the edges of part (G) are flush
with the outside of the 4x4 post, and then
secure it with 4" TimberLOK screws.
Finally, attach part (B) to the 4x4 posts
using 3 ½" screws. Keep the Top Beam
Spacer in place. Repeat steps B1 - B6
three more times to make the remaining
A-frames.
A-FRAME
229
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
C: Cladding the two Outside A-Frames
C1
C2
C3
We’ll focus first on the two outside
A-frames. Flip over two of the assembled
frames and attach a second part (B) to the
tops of them. Keep the Top Beam Spacer
jig in place for this.
Flip them again and install cladding
planks (C) through (F) onto the 4x4 posts.
Place the spacer jig between each plank.
Use 2 ½" screws. Begin at part (G) and
move up toward part (B).
Use 2 screws at the end of each board.
Make sure the angled edges on the
cladding are flush with the 4x4 post. The
completed A-frames should look like the
photo above.
A-FRAME
230
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
D: Cladding and Assembling the Inside Left A-Frame
D1
D2
D3
Each of the two inside A-frames are
unique. We’ll start by cutting notches
into the ends of part (R). These will allow
proper positioning of the crow’s nest side
walls.
Using a handsaw, cut a ½" deep by 3 ½"
wide notch at each end of part (R).
Next, we will create the crow’s nest walls.
This assembly is created separately from
the A-frame.
D4
D5
D6
Attach parts (H) and (M) to vertical post
(R). They should set into the notches at
each end. Attach with 2 ½" screws.
Be sure the angles at each end of parts
(H) and (M) match the angle of the
A-frame.
Using the spacer jig, lay out the remaining
parts (N) through (Q). Align them so that
their edges are flush with the edge of
part (R), and then attach them with 2 ½"
screws.
D7
D8
D9
Flip the assembly and position it on the
A-frame. Support the overhanging edge
with blocking during this step.
Align part (M) with part (G), then attach
using 4" TimberLOK hardware. Next, with
the Top Beam Spacer in place, attach part
(H) using 3 ½" screws.
Attach parts (N) - (Q), starting with (Q).
Use the spacer jig for placement. This
completes the Inside Left A-frame.
A-FRAME
231
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 1:
A-FRAMES
E: Cladding and Assembling the Inside Right A-Frame
E1
E2
E3
Attach parts (H) and (M) to vertical post
(R). This is similar to step D4, but reverse
the orientation of these parts.
Be sure the angles at each end of parts
(H) and (M) match the angle of the
A-frame.
Using the spacer jig, lay out the remaining
parts (I) through (L). Align them so that
their edges are flush with the edge of
part (R), and then attach them with 2 ½"
screws.
E4
E5
E6
Flip the assembly and position it on the
A-frame. Support the overhanging edge
with blocking during this step.
Align part (M) with part (G), then attach
using 4" TimberLOK hardware. Next, with
the Top Beam Spacer in place, attach part
(H) using 3 ½" screws.
Attach parts (I) - (L), starting with (L). Use
the spacer jig for placement. The angled
edges of parts (I) - (L) will be flush with
the back edge of the A-frame, creating a
walled-in piece. This completes the Inside
Right A-frame.
CONGRATULATIONS! THE A-FRAMES ARE THE SKELETON OF THE PLAYSET, AND HAVING THEM COMPLETE
MAKES THE FOLLOWING STEPS STRAIGHTFORWARD.
A-FRAME
232
Playset
STEP 2:
MAIN BEAM
CUTLIST
90 ¼"
S
3 ½"
120"
3 ½"
T
10 3/8"
3 ½"
U
18 3/8"
90 ½"
5 ½"
V
MAIN BEAM
233
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
MAIN BEAM
S
T
U
U
V
FRONT
T
U
S
U
V
BACK
MAIN BEAM
234
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
MAIN BEAM
T
U
V
SIDE
MAIN BEAM
235
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 2:
MAIN BEAM
A: Prep and Mark
A1
A2
A3
Next we’ll need beams (S) and (T), as well
as part (V). This piece will help stabilize
the structure during assembly.
On the rear posts of the Outside Left
A-Frame and the two Inside A-Frames,
make a mark at 50 ½" from the bottom
edge of the post.
Mark the center of part (V) and the center
of the rear post (A) on the Inside Left
A-Frame as well. These marks will help
position part (V) during assembly.
A4
A5
Note: The center of part (V)
should be attached at the
center of the rear post of the
Inside Left A-Frame. This step
is critical for the dimensions of
parts throughout the structure
assembly. Measure and double
check dimensions as needed.
With an assistant or two, lift the Outside
Left and Inside Left A-Frames up.
Connect the two frames by installing part
(V) using the marks you made to help
position the board. Use 3 ½" screws.
MAIN BEAM
236
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 2:
MAIN BEAM
B: Mount Beams
B1
B2
B3
Drop in part (S). Align the end so that it’s
flush with the outside edge of part (B) on
the Outside Left A-Frame.
In the center of this beam, drill and
countersink using a ½" Forstner bit.
Then fasten the parts together using 6"
TimberLOK screws. Do this on the reverse
side of the A-Frame as well.
The center of the Left Inside A-Frame,
part (A), should be 46 ¾" from the
end of the beam. After confirming this
measurement, fasten the pieces together.
B4
B5
B6
Raise the Inside Right A-Frame into
position. Attach part (V) using your
reference marks as guides. The outside
edge of part (V) should be flush with the
outside edge of the A-Frame.
Top Beam (S) should end at the midpoint
of the Inside Right A-frame as shown.
Countersink and attach using 6"
TimberLOK screws.
Next, position part (T) vertically with
the Outside Right A-frame on the
ground. Insert part (T) into the A-Frame,
then countersink and attach using 6"
TimberLOK screws.
B7
B8
B9
Tip the assembly into position with the
end of part (T) butting up against part
(S). Countersink and attach with 6"
TimberLOK screws.
Install the additional part (C) to the
outside of the Inside Right A-Frame using
2 ½" screws. The angle brace (U) will butt
up against this piece.
Attach part (U) using 3 ½" screws. There
are two of these braces you’ll need to
install, one on each side of the swings.
MAIN BEAM
237
Playset
STEP 3:
LADDERS
CUTLIST
40"
3 ½"
W
47"
5 ½"
X
LADDERS
238
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
LADDERS
X
W
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
FRONT
BACK
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
LADDERS
239
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 3:
LADDERS
A1
A2
A3
Position and install the bottom rung, part
(X). Attach using 2 ½" screws at the end of
each board.
Using the 3 ¾" spacer jig from before,
continue to install parts (X) up the
A-frame. The top edge of the top rung
should be slightly below the top edge of
part (G).
Repeat this process for the ladder at the
back of the inside A-frames.
A4
Finally, install part (W) on the front of the
crow’s nest using 3 ½" screws.
LADDERS
240
Playset
STEP 4:
FLOOR JOISTS
CUTLIST
37 ¼"
3 ½"
Y
44 3/8"
3 ½"
Z
FLOOR JOISTS
241
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
FLOOR JOISTS
Y
Y
Z
Z
Y
Y
Y
Y
TOP
Z
Y
Z
Y
BOTTOM
FLOOR JOISTS
242
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 4:
FLOOR JOISTS
A1
A2
A3
The joist hangers will be mounted to the
cross frame supports (G) and (M). On part
(G), make a mark 2 ½" in from the edge.
This is the center of the joist hanger. Also
mark this on part (M).
Install these joist hangers at the first
marks using 1 ½" screws. Use a scrap 2x4
block during this step. The top edge of the
2x4 should be flush with the top of parts
(G) and (M).
Now mark 45 7/ 8 " away from the first set of
joist hangers (center to center). Do this for
each cross frame support and install the
second set of joist hangers on parts (G)
and (M).
A4
A5
A6
Attach part (Z) to parts (Y) to create two
H shaped assemblies. Part (Z) should be
attached to the centers of parts (Y) using
3 ½" screws. Create these assemblies
on the ground, separate from the main
structure.
Drop one H shaped assembly into the
joist hangers and secure the hangers to
the joists using 1 5/8" screws.
Repeat this on the right side, where the
crow’s nest will be. Once complete, the
supports for the decking are finished.
Tip: Need help with the joist hangers? Watch the video!
FLOOR JOISTS
243
Playset
STEP 5:
CROW’S NEST JOISTS
CUT LIST
38"
AA
3 ½"
18 7/8"
3 ½"
BB
15"
3 ½"
CC
38"
3 ½"
DD
244
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
AA
BB
DD
AA
TOP
DD
BB
BOTTOM
245
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
BB
CC
CC
AA
AA
BB
DD
LEFT SIDE
246
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 5:
A1
A2
A3
We’ll start by adding framing for the
crow’s nest. Begin by attaching part (DD)
to the back of part (W), creating a double
2x4 beam across the front of the crow’s
nest. Use 2 ½" screws.
Now, assemble parts (BB) and (CC) using
3 ½" screws to create a center support
structure for the crow’s nest decking. Use
two screws at the end of each board to
make a square structure.
Attach part (AA) to the center of the
center support structure you just made.
The bottom edge of part (AA) should be
flush with the bottom edge of part (BB).
Use 1 5/8" screws.
A4
A5
Position the center support structure you
just made so that it rests on part (Y) and
(DD). It should be centered on these parts.
Attach using 3 ½" screws diagonally into
parts (Y) and (DD). Also use 1 5/8" screws
at the edge of part (AA).
Finally, position part (AA) so that it is
centered on the back of the center
support structure. The bottom edge of
part (AA) should be flush with the bottom
edge of part (BB). Attach using 1 5/8"
screws.
247
Playset
STEP 6:
CROW’S NEST CLADDING
CUTLIST
38"
II
5 ½"
40"
EE
5 ½"
3 ½"
40"
3 ½"
JJ
3 ½"
FF
14 ½"
38"
3 ½"
KK
GG
3 ½"
15 ¼"
3 ½"
20 3/8"
LL
3 ½"
HH
248
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
FF
EE
EE
EE
HH
GG
HH
EE
HH
HH
FRONT
II
KK
KK
LL
LL
JJ
JJ
FF
LEFT SIDE
249
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
FF
EE
EE
II
LL
JJ
EE
HH
GG
GG
EE
II
HH
KK
SIDE
250
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 6:
A: Install Blocking Supports
A1
A2
A3
Install parts (LL) along the back of part (P).
The top edge of part (LL) should be flush
with the top edge of part (P). Attach using
2 ½" screws from the outside.
Repeat on the other side of the crow’s
nest, this time making sure the top edge
of part (LL) is flush with the top edge of
part (K). This will provide support for the
decking to come.
Next, install parts (KK) vertically, using
part (AA) to help position them. Part (KK)
should butt up against part (AA) at the
bottom, and butt up against part (LL) at
the top. Attach using 1 5/8" screws from
the outside.
A4
Attach parts (JJ) to the inside of parts (R).
The top edge of part (JJ) should be flush
with the top edge of part (LL). Attach with
2 ½" screws from the inside.
251
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 6:
B: Attach to Structure
B1
B2
B3
Attach the lowermost part (EE) to the front
of the crow’s nest using 2 ½" screws.
Align part (EE) with parts (L) and (Q).
Next, attach part (FF) at the top of the
crow’s nest using 3 ½" screws. Align
part (FF) with parts (H). Then, install the
remaining parts (EE) on the front of the
crow’s nest, from bottom to top.
The remaining parts (II), (GG), and (HH)
should fit into the remaining gaps on the
crow’s nest.
B4
B5
For parts (II) and (HH), the screws should
be at the ends of the board and go into
the blocking part (KK).
Be sure to pre-drill and countersink when
screwing this close to the ends of the
boards.
252
Playset
STEP 7:
DECKING
CUTLIST
83 ½"
MM
5 ½"
83 ½"
NN
4 ½"
40"
4 ½"
OO
40"
4"
PP
35"
4 ½"
QQ
DECKING
253
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
DECKING
OO
OO
NN
NN
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
OO
PP
PP
PP
PP
QQ
TOP
QQ
PP
PP
PP
OO
PP
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
MM
NN
NN
OO
OO
BOTTOM
DECKING
254
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 7:
DECKING
A: Attach to Joists
A1
A2
A3
Position the first decking board (MM)
against the posts of the A-frame at the
front of the structure.
Center and attach using 2 ½" screws. Use
2 screws at each floor joist location, for
a total of 8 screws per board (MM). Set
out the remaining (MM) boards but do not
screw them in.
The final board of this decking will be
board (NN) which should fit up against the
rear posts of the A-frames. Now you can
attach all these boards with 2 ½" screws
into the joists below.
A4
A5
Install parts (OO) at the three openings
of the structures. They should project
slightly beyond the A-frames.
Position and install parts (PP) and (QQ) as
the decking for the crow’s nest. Part (QQ)
will sit between the posts (R). Attach using
2 ½" screws into the blocking you installed
below.
DECKING
255
Playset
STEP 8:
REAR CLADDING
CUTLIST
47"
3 ½"
RR
47"
5 ½"
SS
REAR CLADDING
256
Playset
ASSEMBLY VIEW
REAR CLADDING
RR
SS
SS
SS
SS
SS
TOP
RR
SS
RR
SS
RR
SS
RR
SS
RR
SS
RR
BACK
REAR CLADDING
257
Playset
BUILDING
STEP 8:
REAR CLADDING
A1
A2
A3
Position part (RR) on the back of the
A-frame posts. Making sure the outer
edge is flush with the 4x4 posts behind it,
attach part (RR) with 2 ½" screws.
Alternate boards (SS) and (RR) up the
structure, keeping the outside edges flush
with the 4x4 posts behind them.
Attach all of the parts (RR) and (SS) with
2 ½" screws into the 4x4 posts behind
them.
REAR CLADDING
258
Playset
STEP 9:
FINISHING
A1
sandpaper. Apply a finish to the wood if
desired.
FINISHING
259
Playset
STEP 10:
ACCESSORIES
Choose your own playset accessories based on your needs. One or both of the standard swings shown can be replaced by toddler
or glider swings if needed.
A1
A2
A3
Make a mark on beam (T) 26" from the left
edge of beam (T). Make a second mark
18" further in. Drill holes at these points
to hold your swing hanger bolts. Follow
the swing hanger bolt manufacturer’s
instructions for this step.
Repeat this step on the right side of beam
(T). After installing the swing hanger
bolts, follow the swing manufacturer’s
instructions for how to attach the swings.
Attach the slide to the decking. Follow the
slide manufacturer’s instructions for this
step. Use approved hardware to attach
the slide and swings.
CONGRATULATIONS ON COMPLETING YOUR VERY OWN OUTDOOR PLAYSET! TIME TO LET YOUR KIDS
ENJOY IT. NEVER LET CHILDREN USE THE PLAYSET WITHOUT PROPER SUPERVISION.
ACCESSORIES
260
Playset
GALLERY
261
Potting Bench
Gardening work will be more enjoyable and efficient
with this rugged and versatile potting bench. With
plenty of countertop space, pegboard, shelving, a
drawer and large bin sized for bags of potting mix,
all your potting and transplanting tools will be easily
stored and ready to use. Hook a hose up to the PVC
faucet setup and you’re ready to rinse vegetables or
give young transplants a cool drink of water. You can
let the sink drain into a bucket underneath, or you
can hook up a length of hose and direct it away from
the bench for a makeshift drain.
This project represents a fairly significant
investment in time and materials, with a stainless
steel bar sink, exterior-grade plywood and
plumbing supplies. But it is simpler to build than
it may appear, and the result will provide years of
gardening enjoyment.
BUILD TIME
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262
Potting Bench
TOOLS
CUT LIST
Circular saw or miter saw
Jig saw
Drill/driver
7 64
" drill bit
78
" forstner or spade bit
Squares (framing and combination)
Hacksaw
Hammer and nail set
A
B
C
D
E
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H
I
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P
Q
R
S
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U
V
W
X
Y
Z
AA
SUPPLIES
(2) 2 x 6 x 8'
(8) 2 x 4 x 8'
(1) 1 x 6 x 4'
(1) 1 x 5 x 4'
(2) ¾" x 4' x 8' exterior plywood
(1) ¼" x 4' x 8' perforated hardboard (pegboard)
1 ¼", 2" and 3" deck screws
1 ¼" galvanized finish nails
Stainless steel bar sink
¾" PVC pipe (8')
(2) pipe strap clamps
(2) 90° PVC elbows
PVC stop valve
PVC female adapter
Hose thread to pipe thread transition fitting
PVC primer and cement
Teflon tape
Weatherproof glue
(2)
(2)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(3)
(3)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(2)
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 66"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 45"
¾ x 5 ½ x 45"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 35 ¼"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 33 ¼"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 24 ½"
1 ½ x 3 ½ x 24"
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 27"
¾ x 3 5 x 45"
1 ½ x 1 ½ x 45"
1 ½ x 5 ½ x 45"
¾ x 28 ½ x 49" (exterior plywood)
1 ½ x 3 ½ x6"
¾ x 26 ¾ x 24¼" (exterior plywood)
¾ x 26 ¾ x 20 ¼" (exterior plywood)
¼ x 17 5 8 x 31 ¼" (pegboard)
¼ x 17 x 25" (pegboard)
¼ x 62 x 48" (pegboard)
¾ x 3 ½ x 19 ¼" (exterior plywood)
¾ x 20 ¾ x 24" (exterior plywood)
¾ x 20 x 24" (exterior plywood)
¾ x ¾ x 24"
*Note: The plywood components of this plan
require a primer coat and quality weatherproof
paint for durability. It is recommended you first
do a dry assembly with no glue and minimal
screws to make sure everything fits together
properly. Then disassemble, apply primer, paint
and finish of your choice to all components
and then reassemble with glue and screws.
Remember to drill pilot holes for all screws.
263
Potting Bench
A
X2
B
X2
C
X1
D
Q
X1
X2
X2
E
F
X3
G
X3
X2
H
X2
I
J
K
X1
X2
R
X1
T
X1
X2
S
X2
X1
U
X1
L
M
X1
X1
W
N
X1
X
O
X2
X1
P
X1
Y
Z
AA
X2
X1
X1
X2
264
Potting Bench
R
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Sink cutout
A
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Bar sink
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F
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Q
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W
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PVC faucet setup
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X
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T
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S
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o
o
o
Z
S
U
V
Top drawer
Y
Bottom bin
265
Potting Bench
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut parts A through K to size according to the
cut list and mark in pencil to keep organized.
Begin assembling left side (plumbing side)
in the following manner: Install one upper
stretcher (G) flush with top of front leg (D) and
inset 1 ½" from both the front leg and back leg
to allow for the front and back top stretchers
(use a scrap block of 2 x 4 and a framing square
for proper placement). Install lower stretcher
(F) 4" up from bottom of legs and inset 1 ½"
from back leg and 1" from front leg. Fasten with
glue and 2" screws. Make sure the assembly is
square before proceeding to the next step.
02 Build the right side in the same manner, except
this side includes a drawer support (H), which is
installed 4 ¾" below the bottom edge of upper
stretcher (G). Again, make sure everything is
square and attach with glue and 2" screws.
03 Connect the two end assemblies by attaching
the two back stretchers (B), keeping the tops
flush with the tops of their corresponding lower
stretchers (F). Use glue and 3" screws.
04 Install top stretcher (C), keeping top of stretcher
flush with top of back legs (A). Carefully drill
pilot holes and use glue and 3" screws.
05 Install top front stretcher (J) with glue and 3"
screws, keeping top flush with top of upper
stretchers (G) and face should be flush with
front edge of front legs (D).
266
Potting Bench
BUILDING STEPS
06 Mark center of both back stretchers (B) and line
up center of one middle leg (E), keeping the
top of the leg 1 ½" down from the top edge of
the upper back stretcher so that top of upper
stretcher (G) will eventually line up flush with
top of back stretcher (B). Attach with glue and
2" screws.
07 Install bottom front stretcher (I) to front edge
of both lower stretchers (F), keeping tops flush.
Use glue and 2" screws.
08 Hold other middle leg (E) even with one of the
front legs and mark where front stretcher (I) will
fall. Cut a ¾" deep dado for the front stretcher
to fit into, mark the center points of both the (I)
and (J) and line those up with the center point
of front middle leg (E). Attach to bottom front
stretcher with 2" screws and glue.
09 The inside edge of the top front stretcher (J)
should fall across the center of the top of
the front middle leg (E), leaving about ¾" for
both the top front stretcher and middle upper
stretcher (G) to attach to the leg. Place middle
upper stretcher on top of the back and front
middle legs (E) and attach with 3" screws. Drive
3" screws through the front of the top front
stretcher and into the middle upper stretcher
as well.
10 Attach the shelf (K) to the back legs (A), keeping
bottom of shelf flush with bottom edge of top
stretcher (C). Use a combination square and
clamps to help keep the shelf square and level.
Use glue and 3" screws through the back legs
and into the shelf, and use 2" screws from the
back of the top stretcher and into the shelf.
267
Potting Bench
BUILDING STEPS
11 Install remaining lower stretcher (F) to both
the middle back and front leg (E) with glue and
3" screws, keeping top flush with back and
front stretchers (B and I). Attach bottom shelf
cleat (M) flush on the left (plumbing side) of
the middle lower stretcher (F) to help support
undersink shelf (N). Cut the undersink shelf
(N) and bottom (O) to size, notching part (N) to
fit around back, front and middle legs. There
should be at least a 3 8 " gap between the two
bottom pieces to accept middle pegboard panel
later on. Attach with glue and 2" screws.
12 Cut bin sliders (AA) and install to bottom (O)
with glue and finish nails driven below the top
surface of (AA). These sliders make it easier
for the heavy bin to slide in and out of its
appointed space.
13 Measure and cut the countertop (L) to size.
Cut notches to fit around the back legs and keep
a ½" to ¾" overhang from the outside edges
of both the front and back legs as well as the
front edge of the top front stretcher (countertop
should be flush with back edge of back
stretcher). Lay out the sink cutout where you
want it (your sink should come with a template
to help you); drill pilot holes inside the layout
marks and finish the cut with a jig saw. Install
the countertop with glue and 2" screws driven
from underneath parts J, G and B (you’ll have
to drive screws at an angle in some places, be
careful not to drive them through the top of
your countertop.
14 Cut all drawer and bin pieces to size. Apply
glue to the ends of the end pieces (T and X,
respectively) and clamp the side pieces (S and
W) in place as shown in detail illustrations.
Drill pilot holes and attach with 1 ¼" deck
screws. Position bottom pieces (U and Y) in
place and use them to help square up end/side
assemblies. Attach with glue and 1 ¼" screws.
268
Raised Veggie Bed
This plan is so simple you could build several of
various sizes in one day. The simple corner trim
detail serves to both cover the end grain of the side
pieces as well as reinforce the corners. Landscape
fabric stapled to the bottom keeps your potting mix
in place while allowing adequate drainage for
your plantings.
Perfect for a patio or deck — you can tend a little
patch of vegetables just outside your door. You can
also grow herbs or flowers, or you can place them
around your home to use as landscape beds. The
concepts and details are the same; the only thing
you have to change is the measurements of your
side pieces.
BUILD TIME
Cutting parts: Less than 1 hour
Assembly: Less than 1 hour
Finishing: 1 hour
269
Raised Veggie Bed
A
TOOLS
Circular saw or miter saw (or even a hand saw)
Drill/driver
7 64
" drill bit
Hammer
Utility knife
Brad nailer or hammer and nail set
SUPPLIES
X4
B
(1) 2 x 8 x 8'
(1) 1 x 4 x 5'
3" deck screws
1 ½" galvanized brads or finish nails
38
" galvanized staples
Landscape fabric (at least 24"x 27")
X8
C
CUT LIST
A
B
C
(4)
(8)
(1)
1 ½" x 7 ¼" x 24"
¾" x 3 ½" x 7 ¼"
trim to fit
X1
*Note: We did not show the use of weatherproof glue in this assembly, as an eventual
weathered, curled look with somewhat loose
joints is preferred in this case. By all means,
however, the use of glue and a quality finish is
recommended if that “weathered barn” look is
not what you eventually want.
270
Raised Veggie Bed
B
A
B
B
A
B
A
A
B
B
B
271
Raised Veggie Bed
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut four lengths of 2 x 8 at 24" for the sides (A).
You should be able to do this with a single
eight-footer, which usually measures at least 96
½", if not more. Drill pilot holes in both ends of
two side pieces where they will connect to the
ends of the other two side pieces.
02 Connect the sides with 3" deck screws, keeping
the outside faces flush with the ends. It will
help to do this on a flat surface to keep the
bottom edges flush with each other. Those will
then become a nice, level top when you flip
the assembly over.
03 Cut eight corner trim pieces (B) from 1 x 4 to a
length 7 ½" and place each piece at the corners
so they overlap the corner joints of the box
assembly (see detail illustration). Attach with 1
½" galvanized brads or finish nails.
04 Attach a piece of landscape fabric to the top
edges (those that will eventually become the
bottom) with galvanized staples. Let the fabric
sag, as you want to leave room for the fabric to
sag and settle with the eventual weight of your
planting mix. Trim edges with a utility knife after
you’ve driven all your staples flush.
05 Turn over and break all edges/sand all surfaces
to eliminate splinters. Apply a weatherproof
finish if desired, and place in your new planting
spot. Add the potting mix of your choice, plant
and tend!
272
Sandbox
This sand box is as rugged and durable as it is
simple to build. Notching the 4 x 4 posts for the
side pieces and using 2 x 10 stock for corner braces,
this box will handle all the rough and tumble play
youngsters can dish out. Heavy duty landscape
fabric on the bottom allows water to drain out and
keeps grass and weeds from creeping in.
This particular plan is for a large sand box, and you
can adjust the dimensions in any way you like to
make it bigger or smaller. Remember to calculate
how many yards of sand it will take to fill your box
before you build it (inside box width x inside box
width x depth of sand). This box ended up requiring
about .6 cubic yards of play sand to fill to depth of
6 inches.
Careful sanding and rounding over of all sharp
corners are especially important for this plan, as you
want to eliminate the chance for splinters as much
as possible.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 1 hour
Finishing: 2 hours
Total: 4 hours
273
Sandbox
A
TOOLS
X4
Table saw
Drill/driver
Staple gun
1/8” drill bit
B
X4
C
SUPPLIES
(1) 4 x 4 x 8’
(4) 2 x 10 x 8’
(4) 1 x 6 x 8’
½” galvanized staples
3” deck screws
Heavy duty landscape fabric
Play Sand
X4
D
X4
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
(4)
(4)
(4)
(4)
3 ½ x 3 ½ x 7 3/8”
1 ½ x 9 x 68”
1 ½ x 9¼ x 18”
¾ x 5 ½ x 77”
274
Sandbox
A
D
C
B
D
B
A
C
landscape fabric
D
D
B
B
cut radii on all four top
corners after assembly
A
275
Sandbox
Corner post detail
1"
B
1 5/8"
A
1 5/8"
1"
B
Corner brace detail
9"
45°
18"
276
Sandbox
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut four posts (A) to length according to plan.
Then, set your table saw fence to 1" and run the
posts through on two sides, reset the fence to
15 8 " and run through again to make two notches
to accept the sides (B) (see detail illustration).
02 Cut four sides (B) to length. Check the widths of
all four sides to make sure they are the same. If
there are some slight differences, rip them on
your table saw to one width. In this case, we
ripped all the sides to 9". Attach to posts with 3"
deck screws and glue.
03 Cut corner braces (C) from leftover pieces of 2
x 10. In this case we cut two 45° angles at 18"
apart; you can make them smaller if you wish.
Place them tight in each corner and attach with
glue and 3" deck screws.
04 Attach landscape fabric to the bottom of the
box with ½" galvanized staples. Do not pull the
fabric tight so the weight of the sand does not
rip it loose when filled.
05 Turn the box over and check for square. Cut the
tops (D) by measuring the distance from inside
corners of posts, which will be the short points
of the 45° miters on the top pieces. Spread glue
on the corner posts (A) and top edges of sides
(B) and attach with 3" screws on corners and 2"
screws into the top edges of the sides.
277
Sandbox
BUILDING STEPS
06 Round over each corner (we simply traced the
bottom of our glue bottle to get our curve) and
if desired, rout a 1 8 " roundover along all edges.
You may forego the routing and simply break
the edges with sandpaper if you wish. Sand
the rest of the box thoroughly to eliminate the
chance of splinters. Apply a waterproofing finish
according to manufacturer instructions.
TIP: If your miters do not meet tightly, you can
drive screws through the edges of the tops (D)
o pull them together.
TIP: To figure out how much sand it will take to
fill your box, multiply length x width x desired
sand depth. In this case we had approximately 70" x 70" x 6", which gave us 29,400 cubic
inches. There are 1,728 cubic inches in a cubic
foot and 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard, so our
dimensions yield 17 cubic feet, or just over .6
cubic yards.
278
Window Box
Add a bit of pizzazz to your home’s exterior and
brighten your own view from inside the house with
this simple, classic window box design. Built to
accommodate most common flower and plant
containers, you can build several boxes in one day
using this simple design – and dress up as many
windows as you wish.
Here we use a simple pair of interlocking beveled
cleats to attach the box directly to the house. But
you can use rugged metal brackets or adjust the
plan to accommodate nearly any hanging apparatus
you like. You can also play around with the front
piece and cut a more decorative profile to suit your
home’s architectural theme.
BUILD TIME
Assembly: 1 hour
Finishing: 1 hour
Total: 3 hours or less
TIP: If using a hammer and finish nails to attach pieces, you will have to drill pilot holes so
as not to split the wood. Set all nails below the
surface with a nail set. These steps are unnecessary when using a finish nailer.
279
Window Box
A
TOOLS
Table saw
Drill/driver
Finish nailer or hammer
Nail set
X1
B
SUPPLIES
X1
1 ½" galvanized finish nails
2" finish nails
1 ¼" deck screws
(1) 1 x 8 x 10'
(1) 1 x 6 x 8'
CUT LIST
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I & J
(1)
(1)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(1)
(2)
C
X2
D
¾ x 7 ¼ x 33"
¾ x 7 ¼ x 31"
¾ x 7 ¼ x 10 ¼"
¾ x 1 ½ x 34"
¾ x 1 ½ x 30 ½"
¾ x 1 ½ x 10"
¾ x 1 ½ x 8 11 16 "
¾ x 1 ½ x 31"
¾ x 1 ½ x 31"
X1
E
X1
F
X2
G
X3
H
X1
I&J
X2
280
Window Box
EXPLODED VIEW
Cleat detail
3/ "
4
F
E
J
House wall
D
Back of box
I
1 1/2 "
0
45
J
F
C
B
G
I
H
G
A
G
C
281
Window Box
BUILDING STEPS
01 Cut all the pieces according to the dimensions
on the cut list. For the trim (D,E,F), support pieces (G) and blocking (H), rip two 1 ½" pieces from
the 1 x 6 on your table saw.
02 For the cleats (I & J) , which will be used to hang
the box on your house, set your table saw’s
blade at 45° and rip the remaining 1 x 6 stock
down the middle. Reset your saw blade to 90°
and rip both pieces to 1 ½" wide.
03 Attach one cleat (I) and blocking (H) to the back
panel (B), as shown in the illustration. Use glue
and screws.
04 Attach the side panels (C) to the back panel (B)
with finish nails and glue, keeping the ends
flush with the cleat and blocking.
05 Attach the front panel (A) to the side panels,
keeping a ¼" overhang on each side.
282
Window Box
BUILDING STEPS
06 Layout and mark the locations for the bottom
supports (G) on the inside bottom of the back
and front panels. Center one support and keep
the two end pieces 2 – 3" in from the ends.
Attach with glue and finish nails.
07 Set the back trim (E) and side trim (F) pieces in
place, keeping the back trim and ends of the
side trim flush with the back of the hanging
cleat, and the side trim overhanging evenly
(approx. ½") on both sides. Attach with glue
and finish nails.
08 Attach the front trim (D) with glue and nails. You
should have an approximate ½" overhang on
the front and ½" overhang on either end.
09 Break all edges and touch up rough spots with
sandpaper. Make sure all nail heads are set
below the wood surface.
10 Apply a waterproofing finish to all exposed
surfaces according to manufacturer instructions.
283
Window Box
BUILDING STEPS
11 Attach the second cleat to your home using
appropriate anchors/screws for your siding
material. Be sure to keep the cleat level and
spaced properly below your window trim.
12 Attach the box to your house using the
interlocking cleats. If you want to hang it
permanently, drive additional screws through
the inside of the back panel, the cleats and
blocking and into your home’s siding.
284
FASTENER AND HARDWARE
INFORMATION SHEET
For interior or exterior applications
Use fasteners and hardware that are in compliance
with the manufacturer’s recommendations and the
building codes for their intended use. As with any
good design and construction practices, treated
wood should not be used in applications where
trapped moisture or water can occur. Where design
and/or actual conditions allow for constant, repetitive or long periods of wet conditions, only stainless
steel fasteners should be used.
For exterior applications
The following minimum galvanization levels may
be used for connectors, joist hangers, fasteners and
other hardware that are placed in direct contact with
exterior applications of micronized copper
treated wood:
•
•
We recommend that you contact the aluminum
building products manufacturer for
recommendations regarding use of its aluminum
products in contact with treated wood in ground
contact applications or when exposed to salt
water, brackish water, or chlorinated water, such as
swimming pools or hot tubs.
Also check with the aluminum building products
manufacturer regarding compatibility with other
chemicals and cleaning agents and the use of their
aluminum products in commercial, industrial and
specialty applications such as boat construction.
Fasteners - nails, screws, etc.
ASTM – A 153 (1 oz/ft²)
Hardware - connectors, joist hangers, etc.
ASTM – A 653 G90 (0.90 oz/ft²)
The effects of other building materials within a given
assembly, along with environmental factors, should
also be considered when selecting the appropriate
hardware and fasteners to use for a given project
containing treated wood.
Stainless steel fasteners and hardware are
required for permanent wood foundations below
grade and are recommended for use with treated
wood in other severe exterior applications such as
swimming pools, salt water exposure, etc. Type 304
and 316 are recommended grades to use.
Aluminum building products may be placed in
direct contact with YellaWood® brand products
used for interior uses and above ground exterior
applications such as decks, fencing and landscaping
projects. Examples of aluminum products include
siding, roofing, gutters, door and window trim,
flashing, nails, fasteners and other hardware
connectors. However, direct contact of treated
products and aluminum building products should
be limited to code-compliant construction
applications that provide proper water drainage
and do not allow the wood to be exposed to
standing water or water immersion.
YellaWood® brand pressure treated products
are treated with copper and other preservatives
(the “Preservatives”) and preservative methods,
systems and technologies of unrelated third parties.
For details regarding the Preservatives, methods,
systems and technologies used by Great Southern
Wood Preserving, Incorporated, visit http://www.
greatsouthernwood.com/products/yellawood or
write us at P.O. Box 610, Abbeville, AL 36310. Ask
dealer for warranty details or visit http://www.
greatsouthernwood.com/products/warranties. For
important handling and other information concerning
our products or for a copy of the YellaWood® brand
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), please visit us at
www.greatsouthernwood.com or write us at P.O. Box
610, Abbeville, AL 36310. YellaWood® and the yellow
tag are federally registered trademarks of Great
Southern Wood Preserving, Incorporated.
Great Southern Wood Preserving, Incorporated makes
no warranties expressed or implied as to the fitness
for a particular purpose of this plan.
285
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Consult the end tag to determine which
preservative or preservative system was used
in the treatment of that particular product.
YellaWood® brand products may be used in direct
contact with aluminum building products when
limited to code-compliant construction applications
that provide proper water drainage and do not allow
the wood to be exposed to standing water or water
immersion.
Use fasteners and other hardware that are
in compliance with building codes for the
intended use.
Do not burn preserved wood.
Wear a dust mask and goggles when cutting or
sanding wood.
Wear gloves when working with wood.
Some preservatives may migrate from the treated
wood into soil/water or may dislodge from the
treated wood surface upon contact with skin.
Wash exposed skin areas thoroughly.
All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned
up and disposed of after construction.
Wash work clothes separately from other household
clothing before reuse.
Preserved wood should not be used where it may
come into direct or indirect contact with drinking
water, except for uses involving incidental contact
such as fresh water docks and bridges.
Do not use preserved wood under circumstances
when the preservative may become a component of
food, animal feed or beehives.
Do not use preserved wood as mulch.
Only preserved wood that is visibly clean and free of
surface residue should be used.
If the wood is to be used in an interior application
and becomes wet during construction,
it should be allowed to dry before being
covered or enclosed.
If you desire to apply a paint, stain, clear water
repellent or other finish to your preservative-treated
wood, we recommend following the manufacturer’s
instructions and label of the finishing product.
Before you start, we recommend you apply the
finishing product to a small exposed test area before
finishing the entire project to ensure it provides the
intended result before proceeding.
•
•
Mold growth can and does occur on the
surface of many products, including untreated
and treated wood, during prolonged surface
exposure to excessive moisture conditions. To
remove mold from the treated wood surface,
wood should be allowed to dry. Typically,
mild soap and water can be used to remove
remaining surface mold. For more information
visit www.epa.gov.
Projects should be designed and installed in
accordance with federal, state and local building
codes and ordinances governing construction
in your area, and in accordance with the
National Design Specifications (NDS) and
the Wood Handbook.
Disposal Recommendations:
Preserved wood may be disposed of
in landfills or burned in commercial
or industrial incinerators or boilers
in accordance with federal, state and
local regulations.
286
NOTES
287
NOTES
288
NOTES
289
NOTES
290
NOTES
291

Adirondack Table

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